Anyone have the surge/start amps from the Samsung 17.5, Model: RF18HFENBSR? Trying to size a battery bank and inverter combo for the RR install.

Found a Lowes near which had the data plate. Got a pic. Max amps 3.0 if anyone else needs the info.

AllegroD wrote:Found a Lowes near which had the data plate. Got a pic. Max amps 3.0 if anyone else needs the info.3A name plate rating is most likely including the auto defrost heaters which typically are around 250W.You WILL need an inverter size of 1,000W continuous as a minimum.Most home fridges use the same compressor which typically will be 1A-1.2A running current. The induction motors in the compressors however has a real high startup surge current. That startup surge will be somewhere around 9A-10A at 120V or 960W-1200W at 120V.Some folks have been successful getting a 800W inverter to work but it IS better in this case to OVERSIZE the inverter to ensure the compressor can start every time.DON'T GO CHEAP on the inverter, many cheap inverters found in stores typically do not have enough surge capacity in time.I used a Tripplite PV1250 which is an honest 1250W continuous with a surge capacity of 2500W for an hr and 3,000W surge for 10 minutes. Yeah, it will cost about $290 but it WILL power your fridge and not break a sweat.PV1250 also has a power save feature which turns the inverter output on when the t stat turns on the compressor and turns the invert off when the t stat is satisfied.. Saves a lot of battery capacity.. I have mine set that the fridge light bulb will trip the inverter on when the door is opened.. Newer fridges are now using LEDs so it might be difficult to get the inverter to see the fridge lights.And for those naysayers, YES the PV1250 IS a "MSW" inverter, and NO it WILL NOT KILL OR HARM THE FRIDGE IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM. The PV1250 is an industrial designed inverter and IS built specifically to handle high surge currents of inductive motors.Go BIG on the 12V wire and keep the 12V wire SHORT AS POSSIBLE.Voltage drop at 12V is a killer and to minimize the drop you need to use a heavy ga wire and keep the run short.I used extra flex 1/0 and the total run for pos and neg cables is six feet or about 3 ft away from the battery.For goodness sake, FUSE the wire going to the inverter, no further than 18" from the battery!!! You will need for the PV1250 a min of 150A-200A fuse..You will want at a minimum of 210Ahr battery capacity which should allow you to operate the fridge for about 20-24hrs before needing to recharge..I use a pair of 6V Golfcart batteries which are wired in series to get 12V.Group 24/27 "RV/marine" batteries are not going to cut it for this application..

Buy a inverter fridge that runs all the time instead, we have a Mitsubishi 314L running of a 375W inverter.Frank.

Slownsy wrote:Buy a inverter fridge that runs all the time instead, we have a Mitsubishi 314L running of a 375W inverter.Frank.That does not appear to be a valid model number sold in the US and/or discontinued model..Only can find a few references to Singapore..OP is looking at a counter depth 17.5 CuFt double french door with freezer on bottom which should fit nicely with very few mods in a RV..Personally, I am not a big fan of those inverter fridge systems, you give up a lot of reliability by adding in variable speed compressors with other extra electronics.. Then add in the factor of it running 24/7 adds extra wear and tear mechanically.Simplicity is often the better route..Standard boring old 120V compressors are virtually bullet proof and very well proven "technology" that just works.The startup surge is easily overcome by using a properly sized inverter, skimping on the inverter is what gets folks in trouble and overall, you WILL use much less battery since standard fridge compressor is only using 90W for about 20 minutes run time per hr..375W running all hrs is going to beatup your battery system at a spectacular rate.. Might as well use a propane fridge on electric which would use less power (275W heater)..

found in Au and Singaporethat fridge does NOT appear to be available here in the USA and i could find adv and pictures but NO specs375W running all hrs is going to beatup your battery system at a spectacular rate.. Might as well use a propane fridge on electric which would use less power (275W heater)..i think he said HIS inverter is 375w, meaning it runs on s small inverterNOT the fridge uses 375w,

Samsung 17.5 Fridge Data Plate | Good Sam Community

AllegroD
Nomad
Jun 23, 2018
We actually had the install about 10 days ago but it took me a few days to get the pics.

Dometic RM1350 original install

RF18 New fridge
The fridge

How it looks.

17.5 cuft. We are very happy.
AllegroD
Nomad
Apr 13, 2018
Planning wrote:
Zero problems or issues. It’s a generic dealer supplied battery that came with the unit. Since we do not boondock, we travel from shore power to shore power. Our tow vehicle produces 357 amps while driving so the charging circuit more than compensates for what we use to run the reefer.

Awesome! Thanks.
Planning
Explorer
Apr 13, 2018
AllegroD wrote:
Planning wrote:
AllegroD wrote:
Anyone have the surge/start amps from the Samsung 17.5, Model: RF18HFENBSR? Trying to size a battery bank and inverter combo for the RR install.

This is our setup for an newer residential 18 cu. ft. reefer system:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29614925/gotomsg/29615770.cfm#29615770

Are you happy with that battery? Any issues? We have T105s but would love to go with maint free.

Zero problems or issues. It’s a generic dealer supplied battery that came with the unit. Since we do not boondock, we travel from shore power to shore power. Our tow vehicle produces 357 amps while driving so the charging circuit more than compensates for what we use to run the reefer.
AllegroD
Nomad
Apr 13, 2018
Planning wrote:
AllegroD wrote:
Anyone have the surge/start amps from the Samsung 17.5, Model: RF18HFENBSR? Trying to size a battery bank and inverter combo for the RR install.

This is our setup for an newer residential 18 cu. ft. reefer system:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29614925/gotomsg/29615770.cfm#29615770

Are you happy with that battery? Any issues? We have T105s but would love to go with maint free.
AllegroD
Nomad
Apr 13, 2018
Gdetrailer wrote:
AllegroD wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
I used a Tripplite PV1250 which is an honest 1250W continuous with a surge capacity of 2500W for an hr and 3,000W surge for 10 minutes. Yeah, it will cost about $290 but it WILL power your fridge and not break a sweat.

PV1250 also has a power save feature which turns the inverter output on when the t stat turns on the compressor and turns the invert off when the t stat is satisfied.. Saves a lot of battery capacity.. I have mine set that the fridge light bulb will trip the inverter on when the door is opened.. Newer fridges are now using LEDs so it might be difficult to get the inverter to see the fridge lights.

I have the Tripplite RV750ULHW. The only things it runs right now is the home theater equipment and a plug in front of the passenger seat. Abouut 1 eveery 3 years we carry a 5cuft B&D chest freezer. It's surge Amps are 12 amps on the data plate.

I was looking at the RV1250ULHW or the RV1512UL. I have queried Don Boyd, lead tech at Tiffin, and he has said the 1250 will work but I need to check the wiring to see if the 1512 will work. For a 2000, I will have to have some wiring changed.

I have 2 T105 and looking to go to 4 or maybe 2 12V AGM.

Your current RV750 might be a bit on the light side but might work since Tripplites do tend to have a decent surge capacity and the RV750 has 1500W (12.5A at 120V) for ten seconds.

You could look at the RV1012 which would be 1000W continuous with 2000W surge (16.6A at 120V)for ten seconds if you didn't want to spend any more money.

Or, by the PV1250 and use as a dedicated fridge inverter (PV1250 does not have built in charger or ATS like the RV versions).

You would need to verify the wire ga, going up in inverter size most likely the wiring will be a bit light and running new wire to the existing inverter/charger might be an issue.

Upsizing the RV version also will upsize the charging portion of the unit (45A charging for RV750 and 55A charging for the RV1012).

I am not an electrician so when the coach goes in to have the fridge installed, they will check the wiring and tell me the max size of the inverter I can put in without changing wires. We are gong with an inverter/charger, instead of an inverter dedicated to the fridge, only. This will take us to at least the RV1250ULHW.
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Apr 12, 2018
AllegroD wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
I used a Tripplite PV1250 which is an honest 1250W continuous with a surge capacity of 2500W for an hr and 3,000W surge for 10 minutes. Yeah, it will cost about $290 but it WILL power your fridge and not break a sweat.

PV1250 also has a power save feature which turns the inverter output on when the t stat turns on the compressor and turns the invert off when the t stat is satisfied.. Saves a lot of battery capacity.. I have mine set that the fridge light bulb will trip the inverter on when the door is opened.. Newer fridges are now using LEDs so it might be difficult to get the inverter to see the fridge lights.

I have the Tripplite RV750ULHW. The only things it runs right now is the home theater equipment and a plug in front of the passenger seat. Abouut 1 eveery 3 years we carry a 5cuft B&D chest freezer. It's surge Amps are 12 amps on the data plate.

I was looking at the RV1250ULHW or the RV1512UL. I have queried Don Boyd, lead tech at Tiffin, and he has said the 1250 will work but I need to check the wiring to see if the 1512 will work. For a 2000, I will have to have some wiring changed.

I have 2 T105 and looking to go to 4 or maybe 2 12V AGM.

Your current RV750 might be a bit on the light side but might work since Tripplites do tend to have a decent surge capacity and the RV750 has 1500W (12.5A at 120V) for ten seconds.

You could look at the RV1012 which would be 1000W continuous with 2000W surge (16.6A at 120V)for ten seconds if you didn't want to spend any more money.

Or, by the PV1250 and use as a dedicated fridge inverter (PV1250 does not have built in charger or ATS like the RV versions).

You would need to verify the wire ga, going up in inverter size most likely the wiring will be a bit light and running new wire to the existing inverter/charger might be an issue.

Upsizing the RV version also will upsize the charging portion of the unit (45A charging for RV750 and 55A charging for the RV1012).
Planning
Explorer
Apr 12, 2018
AllegroD wrote:
Anyone have the surge/start amps from the Samsung 17.5, Model: RF18HFENBSR? Trying to size a battery bank and inverter combo for the RR install.

This is our setup for an newer residential 18 cu. ft. reefer system:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29614925/gotomsg/29615770.cfm#29615770
Slownsy
Explorer
Apr 12, 2018
MrWizard are absolutely right, we are back in Australia and it is a 240V model but surely they can also be sourced in America. It runs of a 375W inverter. Has also got a 3000W for all of FW. Ouer total usidge when running of batteries lights, water pump, tv, microwave and fridge about 70-80A from sundown to sunlight.
Frank.
AllegroD
Nomad
Apr 08, 2018
Gdetrailer wrote:
I used a Tripplite PV1250 which is an honest 1250W continuous with a surge capacity of 2500W for an hr and 3,000W surge for 10 minutes. Yeah, it will cost about $290 but it WILL power your fridge and not break a sweat.

PV1250 also has a power save feature which turns the inverter output on when the t stat turns on the compressor and turns the invert off when the t stat is satisfied.. Saves a lot of battery capacity.. I have mine set that the fridge light bulb will trip the inverter on when the door is opened.. Newer fridges are now using LEDs so it might be difficult to get the inverter to see the fridge lights.

I have the Tripplite RV750ULHW. The only things it runs right now is the home theater equipment and a plug in front of the passenger seat. Abouut 1 eveery 3 years we carry a 5cuft B&D chest freezer. It's surge Amps are 12 amps on the data plate.

I was looking at the RV1250ULHW or the RV1512UL. I have queried Don Boyd, lead tech at Tiffin, and he has said the 1250 will work but I need to check the wiring to see if the 1512 will work. For a 2000, I will have to have some wiring changed.

I have 2 T105 and looking to go to 4 or maybe 2 12V AGM.
westend
Explorer
Apr 08, 2018
The startup surge is easily overcome by using a properly sized inverter, skimping on the inverter is what gets folks in trouble and overall, you WILL use much less battery since standard fridge compressor is only using 90W for about 20 minutes run time per hr..

Yup, I tried using a 600W inverter for a dorm fridge. It wouldn't take the start up surge. I'm now using a Xantrex 1000W sine inverter and the fridge operates well. 80W when in duty cycle.

FWIW, I now have a Tripplite 2000W I plan to install. I'll need some cabling but with the larger inverter I can run the whole trailer.