I'm getting an error code of 8.2 on my bedroom slide Schwintek controller: Hall effect signal not being received from motor two. Result is that the slide rear moves fine but front moves a couple of inches then stops. Fortunately the manual / electronic override works fine so I can move the slide in / out if I have to (so no mechanical jam in the mechanism). The debug chart says this is usually a wiring problem.I know there are several videos on YouTube showing how to access the motor from inside the rig. Unfortunately, that appears to be an innovation made after mine was built. To access the wiring, I thought I'd be able to remove a piece of metal 'trim' that's screwed to the exterior wall of my rig, but that 'trim' appears to be the actual mounting for the Schwintek mechanism (the bearing blocks are riveted to it).I'm trying to do a continuity check on the harness as LCI has advised that's the next step in the debug process. From the outside I can see the wires that go into the motor but can't reach the connector.I think I have to push the Schwintek mount out a couple of inches to access the wiring and the motor. This sounds a bit scary to me. LCI wouldn't confirm this. They said "We didn't install it in your rig - you have to call the manufacturer".Has anybody done this? Any other helpful suggestions?I've had my Voltage 3950 since it was new and this is the first time since PDI that the slides have acted up.

On my '12 Jayco Pinnacle you need to also remove 4 screws which are on the inside frame of the slide. The slide will need to be half in and half out. Then have someone hold the slide from the outside while you jerk and pull from the inside. This will create enough of a separation to access the motor.I fought this Hall Effect, also, and found that a lead wire at the motor was chafed and shorting out. A piece of heat shrink to insulate the exposed wire was the fix.Hope you get this figured out and repaired!

I found a Schwintek repair manual in some obscure place. It said move the slide out a few inches, then undo the screws on the outside of the frame. Then put a 2x4 on top of the slide. Push the IN button - the slide can't go in so the frame comes out!! There's the motor.I pulled enough wipes and weatherstripping off on the inside that I could see the harness, connector and wires going to the motor. The harness and connector are fine but the blue and green wires are disconnected from the motor - they are the Hall effect sensor wires so of course the controller freaks.I've emailed LCI to ask if I'll be able to reconnect the wires if I wrestle the motor out. Otherwise it's time for a new motor. Who knows what caused two wires to suddenly detach.

joebedford wrote:I found a Schwintek repair manual in some obscure place. It said move the slide out a few inches, then undo the screws on the outside of the frame. Then put a 2x4 on top of the slide. Push the IN button - the slide can't go in so the frame comes out!! There's the motor.I pulled enough wipes and weatherstripping off on the inside that I could see the harness, connector and wires going to the motor. The harness and connector are fine but the blue and green wires are disconnected from the motor - they are the Hall effect sensor wires so of course the controller freaks.I've emailed LCI to ask if I'll be able to reconnect the wires if I wrestle the motor out. Otherwise it's time for a new motor. Who knows what caused two wires to suddenly detach.The solder is extremely difficult to do. Just get a new motor. Doug

Here's the reply from Lippert:"Ultimately that is up to you if you want to try it or not. It is possible to fix that way, but i can not promise anything. You may be looking at a new motor, but you also may be able to attach the wires."

I guess I'll order a new motor then attempt to repair the broken one. Maybe I'll end up with a spare.

Schwintek slide - how to access motor / harness on 2011 unit

joebedford
Nomad II
May 04, 2016
They quoted me $206 for a new motor, but they're selling it on Amazon for $136.
joebedford
Nomad II
May 03, 2016
I guess I'll order a new motor then attempt to repair the broken one. Maybe I'll end up with a spare.
joebedford
Nomad II
May 02, 2016
Here's the reply from Lippert:

"Ultimately that is up to you if you want to try it or not. It is possible to fix that way, but i can not promise anything. You may be looking at a new motor, but you also may be able to attach the wires."
dougrainer
Nomad
May 01, 2016
joebedford wrote:
I found a Schwintek repair manual in some obscure place. It said move the slide out a few inches, then undo the screws on the outside of the frame. Then put a 2x4 on top of the slide. Push the IN button - the slide can't go in so the frame comes out!! There's the motor.

I pulled enough wipes and weatherstripping off on the inside that I could see the harness, connector and wires going to the motor. The harness and connector are fine but the blue and green wires are disconnected from the motor - they are the Hall effect sensor wires so of course the controller freaks.

I've emailed LCI to ask if I'll be able to reconnect the wires if I wrestle the motor out. Otherwise it's time for a new motor.

Who knows what caused two wires to suddenly detach.

The solder is extremely difficult to do. Just get a new motor. Doug
joebedford
Nomad II
May 01, 2016
I found a Schwintek repair manual in some obscure place. It said move the slide out a few inches, then undo the screws on the outside of the frame. Then put a 2x4 on top of the slide. Push the IN button - the slide can't go in so the frame comes out!! There's the motor.

I pulled enough wipes and weatherstripping off on the inside that I could see the harness, connector and wires going to the motor. The harness and connector are fine but the blue and green wires are disconnected from the motor - they are the Hall effect sensor wires so of course the controller freaks.

I've emailed LCI to ask if I'll be able to reconnect the wires if I wrestle the motor out. Otherwise it's time for a new motor.

Who knows what caused two wires to suddenly detach.
taviking22
Explorer
Apr 30, 2016
On my '12 Jayco Pinnacle you need to also remove 4 screws which are on the inside frame of the slide. The slide will need to be half in and half out. Then have someone hold the slide from the outside while you jerk and pull from the inside. This will create enough of a separation to access the motor.

I fought this Hall Effect, also, and found that a lead wire at the motor was chafed and shorting out. A piece of heat shrink to insulate the exposed wire was the fix.

Hope you get this figured out and repaired!

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Schwintek slide - how to access motor / harness on 2011 unit

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