Screwed!

For screws a Canadian brought down drywall screws with Robertson heads. Wow!

The nifty-difty socket adapter kit a friend brought down had safety torx and supposedly Posi-Drive sockets. They did not work and it may be it's a cheap set.

I'm going to shoot for the WiHa's. Can't hurt and they have a large comfortable handle.

Where I live, Home Depot sells a screw by "Spax". It's similar to a drywall screw but uses the posi-drive head. They include a bit in every box.

Senor Sea'Scape, thank you for the posi-drive tip. A whole bunch!

This tool/fastener came along after I retired and I was completely unfamiliar (that's a polite way of putting it) of their existance. With the screw one slot is full width like a flat screwdriver slot, the crossways slot looks fit for a phillips but then there is a large pit where the two points of a phillips would cross. The pit looks square but a Robertson will strip it out instantly.

Your answer regarding the posi-drive has really helped me and hopefully other tinkerers who run up against this. Many thanks!

RJ you "work" on about 3% of the stuff that hobbyist techies use. I am going to break a long standing code of conduct and say 99% of your responses to any thread are to criticize and not to help. This includes other posters. Why don't you stick a lid on it if you cannot help? I could rip most of your responses to shreds but I have enough decency to let others judge for themselves.

Mex, this is a tough crowd to help.
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Is that it, or do some people "make" problems if they can't find any ?? (read his other posts)
I have done a lot of electrical work in my day, and have not found this to be a common problem at all.

Mex, this is a tough crowd to help.

If you use a standard Philips or Robertson screw driver on the screw in the picture, the head will be damaged. It is not a screw that is meant to be used with different drivers.A damaged head is usually a sign that someone, who did not know what the screw was, tried to use a Philips or a Robertson on it.

This type of screw is named Pozidrive, and uses a Pozidrive screwdriver (of course). The Philips screw driver is tapered to a point, while the blade edges on a Pozidrive are parallel to each other. The result is greater torque.

You can recognize the Pozidrive by the X in between the slots where the driver fits. If + is where the driver goes, the X in between shows that it is Pozidrive.

Your link is good for drivers. They are not commonly available. There are bits that will fit into

Pozidrive bits and drivers are usually identified as PZ1 and PZ2.

Your link shows the drivers, which are not commonly available. There are also interchangeable bits for power drivers.

Thanks for trying to help, in spite of the smart cracks.

Campfire Time wrote:
Are you the one selling these? This is not the first time you've posted this.

No, but I have read three complaints about these screws since I first posted. So, obviously three people and they are regulars, did not see that first post.

But I am curious. Do you work with these screws? I am forced to and would rather not have spent nineteen dollars for two screwdrivers. But It's worse, destroying screws on a hundred dollar power supply.

It was and is my intention to not post about this again. Twice is enough. Your comment is a bit abrasive.

I'm running in to more combo Robertson/flat than the phillips/flat these days, but for the phillips/flat combo that would be *very* nice to have. Spent too much time trying to apply the needed torque without camout- one hand pushing, one hand twisting.

Are you the one selling these? This is not the first time you've posted this.

landyacht318 wrote:
I thought perhaps it was for the ferrules so one need not sever or splay copper stranding with a set screw.

Go to Home Depot. Purchase two one-foot lengths of building wire

2/0

10 gauge

Strip the insulation. You will then have a ton of bare copper strands.

Bend one strand of the 2/0 into a 180 degree U. The radius has to be very tight. Try fitting the trimmed-off U into the terminal. If it fits good, solder your wire to be connected to the loop of the U. Heat shrink up to the point where the tip needs to be exposed for the connection. The ripple in the terminal block screw washer fits your U terminal perfectly. This will carry more current than ay pin, and the load on the terminal washer and screw is even.