SCR's Please Educate Me :)
Lack of experience urges me to ask this question... Silicon Controlled Rectifiers seem to be very limited in scope of application. When substituted for a mechanical magnetic relay are SCR's that...
Forum Discussion
Double inversed SCR's...
I have a stick & brick style plywood sheeting kitchen table that supports an 1,100 watt microwave, a 900 watt coffeemaker, a 1,200 watt electric grill/oven, A Joe Foreman griddle, and an 1,875 watt (er, Canadians will refer to it as a kettle).
Brittle concrete wall that would self destruct if I tried to enlarge the receptacle. Receptacle contains 12AWG wires connected to the Mexican obligatory 30-amp toggle breaker on the service drop.
The microwave, the grille/oven and coffee maker have on off switches. Jumpin' Joe Foreman forgot to put an on off switch on his griddle. The World's fastest kettle has the world's worst switch that only turns off 10 minutes after water starts boiling. Remember where I am -
A kitchen table wired like a switchboard? I don't think so. I am going to pass all of the plugs through a 1-1/2" diameter hole and do the magician thing under the table. The Bobbin' an' weavin' Joe Foreman and the Out of Control kettle will be switched. Somehow. I have pretty, decorative 120vac blue pilot lights to tell me when the two recalcitrant appliances have power going to them. I guess I need to build a 3" x 3" box and jam it under the outlet which is 18" above the table. This can hold the pilot lights. Pass a new 12/3 extension from the outlet down and under the table to a 2-relay split. The control wires can then pass up to the pilot light box to 120vac toggle switches. I have an extra On/On switch. one toggle for feed, the second for select load.
This ain't my house, and I am not sinking a nickel in it that cannot be yanked when I go to move. I'm tired of fighting SIX tabletop appliance cords and a pair of must-disconnect-after-each-use power leads to appliances.
Yes I am open to alternatives.
I have a stick & brick style plywood sheeting kitchen table that supports an 1,100 watt microwave, a 900 watt coffeemaker, a 1,200 watt electric grill/oven, A Joe Foreman griddle, and an 1,875 watt (er, Canadians will refer to it as a kettle).
Brittle concrete wall that would self destruct if I tried to enlarge the receptacle. Receptacle contains 12AWG wires connected to the Mexican obligatory 30-amp toggle breaker on the service drop.
The microwave, the grille/oven and coffee maker have on off switches. Jumpin' Joe Foreman forgot to put an on off switch on his griddle. The World's fastest kettle has the world's worst switch that only turns off 10 minutes after water starts boiling. Remember where I am -
A kitchen table wired like a switchboard? I don't think so. I am going to pass all of the plugs through a 1-1/2" diameter hole and do the magician thing under the table. The Bobbin' an' weavin' Joe Foreman and the Out of Control kettle will be switched. Somehow. I have pretty, decorative 120vac blue pilot lights to tell me when the two recalcitrant appliances have power going to them. I guess I need to build a 3" x 3" box and jam it under the outlet which is 18" above the table. This can hold the pilot lights. Pass a new 12/3 extension from the outlet down and under the table to a 2-relay split. The control wires can then pass up to the pilot light box to 120vac toggle switches. I have an extra On/On switch. one toggle for feed, the second for select load.
This ain't my house, and I am not sinking a nickel in it that cannot be yanked when I go to move. I'm tired of fighting SIX tabletop appliance cords and a pair of must-disconnect-after-each-use power leads to appliances.
Yes I am open to alternatives.
