Self leveling or no sag sealant for roof seam

Usually just my wet finger to smooth the bead of sealant
If i want to cover an area several inches wide, i will use enternabond tape not sealant

It will seal on the side trim to where the EPDM goes behind the trim. Because that is a 1/8 inch gap, that DAP will adhere to the EPDM. Just not to use on the roof. NEVER had a problem with it coming loose on small gaps on the side. Doug

Mr Wizard, So do you use something like a putty knife if you want it to level out?

i prefer NO Sag, every where

i find it works better for Me!

self leveling is too thin, runs too much and in some cases flows down and away from what i wanted to seal

the roof must be absolutely flat and 'LEVEL' or it won't stay where i want it

dougrainer wrote:
http://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/kwik-seal-plus-kitchen-bath-adhesive-sealant-with-microban-antimicrobial-product-protection/

This is what I use at home and work. You purchase the clear. It comes out white and dries crystal clear. It is NOT silicone and it does NOT flow like silicone. It is a Adhesive/Sealant. It adheres to Fiberglass/Metal/wood, anything except EPDM roof material. But, it will adhere to where the EPDM rubber goes behind the metal drip/awning rail edge. Coming out white makes sure there are NO gaps and you just use your finger to push into the crevice you are sealing. Then wipe off the excess. You only have about 2 to 3 minutes to wipe off the excess before it starts to partially set up. So, do the sealant is short 3 to 4 foot spots. My only complaint is it dries so clear, customer accuse me of NOT installing sealant around edges and windows/doors I have sealed. I have to poke the sealant with a pencil or pen to show them there IS sealant there. Doug

If it doesn’t adhere to the EPDM roof then how can you say it is sealing? Dicor adheres to it and ensure nothing can get in there. I could/would use it on the sidewalls etc but don’t trust it to the roof.

I’ll use the no-sag then. I’m afraid it’ll just run over the edge of the drip rail.

For Dicor, if it's sitting on a horizontal surface (or at a joint where a horizontal and vertical surface meet), the self-leveling can be used. If it's a vertical or diagonal surface, don't use the self-leveling kind or it will self-level downwards for quite some distance and make a mess.

Because you are working on the edge I would use a non-self-leveling.

http://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/kwik-seal-plus-kitchen-bath-adhesive-sealant-with-microban-antimicrobial-product-protection/

This is what I use at home and work. You purchase the clear. It comes out white and dries crystal clear. It is NOT silicone and it does NOT flow like silicone. It is a Adhesive/Sealant. It adheres to Fiberglass/Metal/wood, anything except EPDM roof material. But, it will adhere to where the EPDM rubber goes behind the metal drip/awning rail edge. Coming out white makes sure there are NO gaps and you just use your finger to push into the crevice you are sealing. Then wipe off the excess. You only have about 2 to 3 minutes to wipe off the excess before it starts to partially set up. So, do the sealant is short 3 to 4 foot spots. My only complaint is it dries so clear, customer accuse me of NOT installing sealant around edges and windows/doors I have sealed. I have to poke the sealant with a pencil or pen to show them there IS sealant there. Doug