After re-re-re-reading your posts, it may well be at present the switch is the only on/off control for the solenoid.
The ignition signal that makes the solenoid "automatically come on" with the engine running is called the IGNITION B signal. it is the same one that powers, wipers, heater blower, etc. The one where when you go to crank the engine, the signal is suppressed until the key is released. Do not use the IGNITION A circuit that stays on when the key is turned to "on".
I see ZERO VALUE in having a dashboard battery paralleling switch unless it is a momentary switch that powers an engine starting solenoid for boosting a low chassis battery. There is too much to forget and go wrong with a manual paralleling switch used for charging.
And as far as "THE BIRD" is concerned, one that the control is mounted one place and control wires run to distant solenoids is asking for headaches. It is the terminals that corrode and the vulnerable wiring that cause all the problems.
If I ever progress to the state of extreme laziness where I just cannot pull myself together enough to shut off the Cole Hersee battery switch, I'll hire a wet nurse and switch to a wheel chair. Ring down for room service, or eat out. Assume a "I have people who do that for me" attitude.
When I switch off the battery switch, I demand a I'll-stake-my-Life-On-It surety that those batteries are off, and not "maybe off".
