Forum Discussion

tomkat4725's avatar
tomkat4725
Explorer
Nov 08, 2016

Sewer outlet lock tabs

My gray and black tanks come together in a black ABS plastic fitting which has four locking tabs which the cap or drain fitting connect to via a bayonet lock fitting. Typical on most RV's. My problem is that the plastic tabs are breaking/crumbling off. One is gone and one is partial. when I connect my drain hose I have to tie it up with a bunji cord to reduce the leaking. Do not wish to replace the "Y" fitting since this would require replacing the slide valves and elbows also. Does anyone know of a very short adapter fitting with new tabs on it which I could glue to the existing fitting? Or another method to maybe insert new tabs by drilling out the old ones and glue in new tabs? Any advice is appreciated.
  • Tom,

    Dutch is right that screws can be a temporary fix, but I have seen the threads tear up the hooks of the bayonet that is on the hose.

    It is not all that difficult to cut two places one chisel width apart and peel the fitting off the pipe. Cut out a piece and then peel the rest of the fitting off carefully.

    Better yet, if you have a friend that is a real plumber, he may have the fancy cutter that can clear the fitting off without destroying the pipe.

    Good Luck

    Matt

  • First photo I have put on this forum. Hope you can view it. It shows my sewer outlet configuration. The black and gray tank feed together to a vertical discharge point where the tabs are broken. If you can see the photo, the discharge fitting, which is a Valterra fitting, has the sliding shutoff valves incorporated into it. In my case Dusty R's solution would not have been practical. However,
    the link Fubeca provided was a simple fix. My order from Etrailer came quickly and all I had to do was to remove the remaining tabs and glue the new adapter on. It fit perfectly and was simple. Job done. Thanks guys.
  • Gjac's avatar
    Gjac
    Explorer III
    I think the peg that has "crumbled off "is about 1/4 in dia. I would file the rest off flat and drill the same size hole then bond in a SS bolt that has been cut to length. The bolt would have a smooth shank no threads. You could also use an Al rivet with the right grip length. The metal will not crumble and the combination of the adhesive and bearing surface of the tube would make it a stronger repair that the original plastic casting.

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