Last fall a clevis pin in my slide mechanism sheared off.I believe it is this one:W1245027GR-1547 Clevis Pin 1/4" x 1-1/8" Stainless Steelfound here: http://www.rbwstore.com/Slide-Outs_c_4.html(although the one that fell out didn't look much like Stainless Steel)I used a standard (grade 3?) bolt to fix it. Elsewhere I was told to use a grade 8.Any idea how the shear strength of a 1/4" Stainless Steel clevis pin compares to a grade 3,5 or 8 bolt? (With or without threads?)The old bolt I put in is still working, probably because we are now very careful when operating the slide. No more on/off jerking. Just start it and wait until it stops by itself. Guess I could just order some replacements but would probably pay a stupid amount in shipping to Canada.

When I had mine fixed once I was told by a mobile RV tech that it was a special bolt similar to one on a snowblower. It is made to shear so the gearbox does not get destroyed.

Stainless bolts are usually soft. I would not use one. Mine snapped one day going out and what to do? dug around until I found a bolt and shoved it in and it still is there today. As to comparing shear pins in snowblowers. Ariens uses a bolt that has been undercut to break in a certain place. Toro uses a grade 8 bolt and feels that their gears are stronger than the bolt. They are right. Grade 8 bolt snapped in half no damage to gears. Back to the camper I believe the bolt I put in was a 10/32 x 2 standard bolt Not anything hardened.

Ranger Smith wrote:When I had mine fixed once I was told by a mobile RV tech that it was a special bolt similar to one on a snowblower. It is made to shear so the gearbox does not get destroyed.Yes, that;s what I was expecting. But what fell out really did look just like the clevis pin in the link, except it was not new & shiny and didn't look like SS.

brulaz wrote:Last fall a clevis pin in my slide mechanism sheared off.I believe it is this one:W1245027GR-1547 Clevis Pin 1/4" x 1-1/8" Stainless Steelfound here: http://www.rbwstore.com/Slide-Outs_c_4.html(although the one that fell out didn't look much like Stainless Steel)I used a standard (grade 3?) bolt to fix it. Elsewhere I was told to use a grade 8.Any idea how the shear strength of a 1/4" Stainless Steel clevis pin compares to a grade 3,5 or 8 bolt? (With or without threads?)The old bolt I put in is still working, probably because we are now very careful when operating the slide. No more on/off jerking. Just start it and wait until it stops by itself. Guess I could just order some replacements but would probably pay a stupid amount in shipping to Canada. If you click on the pin noted above, the description says used to pin gears on RBW slide outs. It is what it was made for.Buy a extra which will almost guarantee you will never have the same problem again. The key word here is shear, it is supposed to fail first. If you substitute, and strip the gears you will find out what a stupid amount you will pay for repairs.

Well I couldn't figure out how to get shear strength for different bolts, but maybe max torque will give an idea about relative shear strengths. And max torque is readily available for bolts.Here's some info on Max Torque for 1/4-20 bolts:Stainless: 6 ft-lbsGrade 2 : 5 ft-lbsGrade 5 : 8 ft-lbsGrade 8 : 12 ft-lbsBut the 1/4" SS Clevis doesn't have threads so it will be a bit stronger than a bolt (give it a 7 instead of 6?). So I figure a Grade 2-3 bolt will be weaker than the original clevis, and Grade 8 is probably too strong. But a Grade 5 bolt might be just a little stronger (8 vs 7?). Anyway if the bolt in there (Grade 2-3), gives out soon, I'll replace it with a Grade 5. If it lasts a long time, I'll stick with the low grade cheapo bolt.

Sheared Pin in Slide | Good Sam Community

13 Replies

brulaz
Explorer
May 20, 2014
Huntindog wrote:

...
Not sure about your home shop, but mine can fill a pretty good sized Uhaul.:B I have never seen a pin on a slide that was all that hard to replace. Even if yours is, getting the pin on the road may be more difficult than getting whatever tools you need.

I got lucky when the pin sheared last fall. The guy next door heard me swearing under the slide-out and came over to investigate. I had the right size bolt, but somehow was missing the nut and lock washer. He had both those.

Anyway, now I've got a bunch of everything!

All part of learning the ins and outs of your trailer, I guess.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
May 20, 2014
brulaz wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
The correct bolt is a grade 8..
...

And how did you come to this conclusion?

The advertised replacement clevis pins are 1/4" stainless steel which appears to have substantially less shear strength than a 1/4" grade 8 bolt, even a bit less than a grade 5.

I read the manual. Of course in my case they are bolts. nto clevis pins. different animal entirely.
Huntindog
Explorer
May 20, 2014
brulaz wrote:
Huntindog wrote:

...
Carry the replacement with you.

Oh ya! Along with the kitchen sink and and half the contents of the workshop. :B

Not sure about your home shop, but mine can fill a pretty good sized Uhaul.:B I have never seen a pin on a slide that was all that hard to replace. Even if yours is, getting the pin on the road may be more difficult than getting whatever tools you need.
Jim_Cindy
Explorer
May 20, 2014
Ran a Metrology Lab, toolmaker by trade. Put Grade 8s in, be sure to take that extra set of gears along. Just my opinion. Call and find out what shipping will be.
brulaz
Explorer
May 20, 2014
wa8yxm wrote:
The correct bolt is a grade 8..
...

And how did you come to this conclusion?

The advertised replacement clevis pins are 1/4" stainless steel which appears to have substantially less shear strength than a 1/4" grade 8 bolt, even a bit less than a grade 5.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
May 20, 2014
The correct bolt is a grade 8.. one common issue people (Myself included) have is using a bolt that is too short.

Bolts come in two types.. one has threads the entire length of the shaft, DO NOT USE THIS TYPE OF BOLT, the other the threads only run part way.
Make sure NO part of the threads are inside the shaft/channel, only the smooth SHANK should be in the working area.. This, of course, means you won't be able to tighten the nut (Nylock by the way) properly unless you washer up.

So washer up.

How much difference does using the right bolt make.

used to buy quarter inch with too much thread by the dozen 2x a year

Now buy long enough smooth shank types by the dozen.. Every few years, and I use them for other things as well (like when I sit down on the end of a picnic table in one park and the )@(#$)@$@ bench Teeter Totters.. Yup, same bolt.
brulaz
Explorer
May 20, 2014
Huntindog wrote:

...
Carry the replacement with you.

Oh ya! Along with the kitchen sink and and half the contents of the workshop. :B
Huntindog
Explorer
May 20, 2014
brulaz wrote:
Well I couldn't figure out how to get shear strength for different bolts, but maybe max torque will give an idea about relative shear strengths. And max torque is readily available for bolts.

Here's some info on Max Torque for 1/4-20 bolts:
Stainless: 6 ft-lbs
Grade 2 : 5 ft-lbs
Grade 5 : 8 ft-lbs
Grade 8 : 12 ft-lbs

But the 1/4" SS Clevis doesn't have threads so it will be a bit stronger than a bolt (give it a 7 instead of 6?). So I figure a Grade 2-3 bolt will be weaker than the original clevis, and Grade 8 is probably too strong. But a Grade 5 bolt might be just a little stronger (8 vs 7?).

Anyway if the bolt in there (Grade 2-3), gives out soon, I'll replace it with a Grade 5. If it lasts a long time, I'll stick with the low grade cheapo bolt.
Carry the replacement with you.
brulaz
Explorer
May 20, 2014
Well I couldn't figure out how to get shear strength for different bolts, but maybe max torque will give an idea about relative shear strengths. And max torque is readily available for bolts.

Here's some info on Max Torque for 1/4-20 bolts:
Stainless: 6 ft-lbs
Grade 2 : 5 ft-lbs
Grade 5 : 8 ft-lbs
Grade 8 : 12 ft-lbs

But the 1/4" SS Clevis doesn't have threads so it will be a bit stronger than a bolt (give it a 7 instead of 6?). So I figure a Grade 2-3 bolt will be weaker than the original clevis, and Grade 8 is probably too strong. But a Grade 5 bolt might be just a little stronger (8 vs 7?).

Anyway if the bolt in there (Grade 2-3), gives out soon, I'll replace it with a Grade 5. If it lasts a long time, I'll stick with the low grade cheapo bolt.
Jim_Cindy
Explorer
May 19, 2014
brulaz wrote:
Last fall a clevis pin in my slide mechanism sheared off.

I believe it is this one:
W1245027
GR-1547 Clevis Pin 1/4" x 1-1/8" Stainless Steel
found here: http://www.rbwstore.com/Slide-Outs_c_4.html

(although the one that fell out didn't look much like Stainless Steel)

I used a standard (grade 3?) bolt to fix it. Elsewhere I was told to use a grade 8.

Any idea how the shear strength of a 1/4" Stainless Steel clevis pin compares to a grade 3,5 or 8 bolt? (With or without threads?)

The old bolt I put in is still working, probably because we are now very careful when operating the slide. No more on/off jerking. Just start it and wait until it stops by itself.

Guess I could just order some replacements but would probably pay a stupid amount in shipping to Canada.

If you click on the pin noted above, the description says used to pin gears on RBW slide outs. It is what it was made for.
Buy a extra which will almost guarantee you will never have the same problem again. The key word here is shear, it is supposed to fail first. If you substitute, and strip the gears you will find out what a stupid amount you will pay for repairs.

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Sheared Pin in Slide

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