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tuna_fisher's avatar
tuna_fisher
Explorer
May 03, 2014

Shore power/ battery question

I just replaced my 1 battery as my old one was shot.I put in the TC last night hooked it up and connected the shore power.At that point the battery read 12.8(full charge) In the morning I could hear the converter humming and the battery read 13.2, about 3hrs. later it read 13.7 and still humming. my question is how high can the battery charge before doing damage to my new battery? I can't remember but I beleive it use to be quite when the battery was fully charged now it just hums all the time. Is that normal? I have a 95 lance lite, if that means anything. I did a search but over 6K threads, I thought this would be easier. I boondock 99% of the time. The only time I use shore power is getting ready for a trip and run the fridge on 110 till we leave.

17 Replies

  • Been looking at alternitives and this is what looks good to me, what do you think
    http://www.bestconverter.com/45-Amp-Converter-Replacement-Kit_p_46.html#.U2em59tOW1t
  • Hi,

    I would agree with Beagle. Just don't worry for your next trip, just plug in the night before and you will be fine. But after that you should definitely upgrade to properly charge your batteries. I suggest a progressive dynamics unit. Here is a link that shows you exactly what to do. Progressive dynamics are among the best converters and will give you their full power to charge.

    http://home.comcast.net/~rabarber/magnetek.htm

    I would suggest the 45 amp unit (PD 9245) if you only have a single house battery.
  • I have a Magnetek 6325 what would be the easiest to replace it. I'm not a elect guy but am handy with anything except elect(mental block)? What about just using a seprate battery charge to charge till I replace my Magnetek, thanks to all for your help.I'm leaving in a week to boondock for 2 weeks, need help fast....
  • Years ago, I destroyed three batteries due to my charger (converter). I was not aware there was a difference. After becoming aware and upgrading to a three stage smart charger, I no longer have battery problems. I purchased my most recent charger (converter) from BestConverter. Randy is very helpful and easy to talk to. He sells several different converters, and will get you the best bang for your buck. I suggest you give him a call, and save yourself lots of battery problems.

    I will probably move this thread to Tech Issues later today. You will get more exposure on this subject there.

    Wayne
    Moderator
  • If you have a charger (converter) than "hums", it is most likely a ferro-resonant type, really not intended to be left plugged in for long periods. Just long enough to fully charge the battery, maybe 8 hours or so. A newer charger will be three stage: start at constant (usually maximum available) current until the absorption voltage is reached (around 14.4 on a flooded lead acid), then switch to constant voltage until the charge current goes down to a low value ( a few percent of AH capacity), then switch to a float voltage high enough to keep it charged but low enough not to evaporate all the water (around 13.2 for flooded cells). The older type that hums does not charge your battery very fast, does not stop once its charged, and makes annoying sounds.

    If as you say you rarely use the charger/converter, just plug it it the night before the trip, save the money, and check your battery water every once in awhile.
  • 12.8 is a fully charged battery if it's not connected to a charger. To fully charge a 12 volt battery it needs to get to a bit over 14 volts. Most older chargers, likely including your '95 model if it's the original, tend to keep the battery at too high a voltage for too long and boil it.
    If you do indeed boondock a lot and recharge with a gen. I would highly recommend a newer and better converter.
    A proper converter should charge your battery to over 14 volts for a while then back off to a float charge around 13.2 to 13.6.
  • Let me be the first to ask you for the make/model of your converter.

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