Should I Change My WFCO Converter?
Opinions have often been expressed, both on this and other RV forums, that most stock RV converters are inadequate to properly charge and maintain batteries and are often of poor quality. It is frequ...
Forum Discussion
lol, the journey has just begun, grasshopper.
But seriously, yes a couple of handhelds will work. An attached volt/amp meter and shunt is a very nice addition, but not absolutely necessary. It just means you'll have to hold the test probes in the unit's output screw-downs, while adjusting the voltage with a screwdriver in your other hand. Or you can even clamp them in place with a couple of small alligator clamps. And you'll have to use a clamp meter for monitoring current.
Make sure you have a decent turkey baster type hydrometer, and a clamp meter capable of high dc amperage (I think BFL already mentioned that?)
I bought the 600a uni-t ut204 off ebay, but they also sell the ut203 400a, among others:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/UNI-T-UT203-Digital-Handheld-Clamp-Multimeter-Tester-Meter-DMM-CE-AC-DC-Volt-Amp-/351139449500?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51c18aca9c
It appears your wfco will function fine as a converter in normal mode. As for float, you will not need float while using the bank daily, and when not in service the bank can be floated with the megawatt, as Niner pointed out.
Another issue is where your batteries are in relation to your converter. In many rigs, the bank is at one end of the rig, and the converter/charger is at the other. And unless the wiring is upgraded to a much larger gauge, there is significant voltage loss, resulting in poor charging. This is just one more situation where a stand alone charger, installed close to the batteries is preferable to upgrading all the wiring.
But seriously, yes a couple of handhelds will work. An attached volt/amp meter and shunt is a very nice addition, but not absolutely necessary. It just means you'll have to hold the test probes in the unit's output screw-downs, while adjusting the voltage with a screwdriver in your other hand. Or you can even clamp them in place with a couple of small alligator clamps. And you'll have to use a clamp meter for monitoring current.
Make sure you have a decent turkey baster type hydrometer, and a clamp meter capable of high dc amperage (I think BFL already mentioned that?)
I bought the 600a uni-t ut204 off ebay, but they also sell the ut203 400a, among others:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/UNI-T-UT203-Digital-Handheld-Clamp-Multimeter-Tester-Meter-DMM-CE-AC-DC-Volt-Amp-/351139449500?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51c18aca9c
It appears your wfco will function fine as a converter in normal mode. As for float, you will not need float while using the bank daily, and when not in service the bank can be floated with the megawatt, as Niner pointed out.
Another issue is where your batteries are in relation to your converter. In many rigs, the bank is at one end of the rig, and the converter/charger is at the other. And unless the wiring is upgraded to a much larger gauge, there is significant voltage loss, resulting in poor charging. This is just one more situation where a stand alone charger, installed close to the batteries is preferable to upgrading all the wiring.
