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SJ-Chris's avatar
SJ-Chris
Explorer II
Jul 29, 2022

Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...

On my 2013 23' Coachman Leprechaun 210QB, the side door lock/latch has developed a problem. It is a TriMark brand lock assembly. Here is a photo:


The correct operation of "closing the door" is to simply push (or pull) it shut and then it self latches closed (but not locked). Recently, when I did that (pushed it shut) it didn't automatically latch and instead it "rejected" the attempt. Imagine if you accidentally had the deadbolt in the lock position (extended) while the door was open, and then you pushed/slammed the door shut. It would make a loud "thud" and sort of bounce back open because it cannot possible close with the deadbolt sticking out. That is sort of what it is like, however it isn't the deadbolt causing the issue, it is the springy door latch part (circled in red in the photo) that is supposed to compress and then latch when the door closes. It is as if the springy part is extended out a little too far and then when the door tries to close it catches on the flat part of the springy part and not the slanted part of the springy part (which would then force it to spring inward and allow the door to close).

LOL....yes I realize "springy part" is obviously not the right name for that part. It is the part that (with the door open) you can push it in and then it will spring back once you remove the tension. It is similar to most standard door latches in your home. It's this part:


So....who here has had a similar problem? Is it possible/easy to open up the Trimark lock assembly and make some sort of adjustment? Thought I'd ask here first to see if anyone has any experience with these.

Thanks!
Chris

23 Replies

  • As mentioned, try a lubricant.

    My go to dry lubricant where I want to minimize transfer damage is candle wax. Take a old unlit candle and drag it across the surface of the strike plate and the spring loaded latch. Then opening/closing a few times and see if that resolves the issue.

    Additionally it was mentioned to check the strike plate, make sure the spring loaded latch is close to centered to the strike plate.

    Also check to make sure the strike plate is not too close to the door. If it is then you may have issues with door swelling/rotting making the door larger than the opening.

    Also sometimes if you have uneven parking or to much stabilizer pressure you can twist the RV frame and body some which causes the door opening to no longer be plumb and square.. Adjust your stabilizers some and/or reposition the RV to see if that helps.

    All else fails, you may need to replace the latch, they can and do go bad and start sticking, even ones in sticks and bricks.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Tri mark locks are a problem the striker bolt (the part that's not moving properly) Loves to break and leave you locked in/out I got good at "picking" the lock.

    You may need to adjust the striker plate a bit (The part it fits into)
    Or you may just need to re-level the RV.. That's after you Lubricate as the other poster recommended.
  • When you want something to go in more easily, lubrication is your friend.

    Try putting lubricant, even just bearing grease (to test) on that face area circled in second pic. Also wipe just a little on the strike plate.

    If that fixes the problem, then use a lube that is more suited, as to not get on clothing or attract dirt. I use just a light film of teflon trailer ball lubricant.

    Jerry