Size of Alternator
I have a class B with 1 engine battery and 2 house batteries. I also have a 120-12volt Norcold fridge. My engine alternator is 75 Amps. It says that the fridge on 12v draws 4.0 amps. My house batter...
Forum Discussion
*from Mexicowander*
You have a 2nd generation Ford alternator commonly referred to as an "IAR". They are HORRIBLE for both performance and for reliability. They have caused thousands of harness fires. Instead of a nut and bolt connecting the battery lead to the alternator some shipdit at Ford pushed through dual .250" Packard PUSH-ON terminal connection and this is where the fires occur. This alternator has an INTEGRAL voltage regulator colored BLACK and your new voltage regulator will also be colored black. The folks who recommended the Lester 7070 70-90 amp large frame alternator were unaware of this. Those alternators use an EXTERNAL F540 voltage regulator.
Look at the orientation of the mounting ears on your alternator. Is the base (called the FOOT) 180 degrees opposite the top threaded ear? If it is, good. Keep reading.
A later model Ford alternator referred to as a "3G" (third generation) is almost a bolt-on and boy the difference in reliability and performance (sans exaggeration) is night & day. Not only more output but three to four times the output at idle and low speed).
The little ear connects to a bracket. Can you loosen the bolt on the other end of this bracket and swing it open to accept a slightly larger alternator? Good. If yes, you can upgrade to the larger Ford 3-G rated at 130 amperes. It will output 60 amps at dead, in-gear idle.
If the little ear adjustment bracket is fixed you can go with the smaller version 3G which is rated 95 amps. It will output 46 amps at idle.
You will need to strip off the horrid original bar connector. Crimp on a new SIX GAUGE by 1/4" hole ring terminal. I prefer to solder.
There is a very small wire also connected to your original horrid bar terminal connector. It needs to go to a special terminal on any of the 3G alternators. So you will cut this wire and BUTT TERMINAL CRIMP it to a new pigtail that you will order along with the alternator.
I much recommend telephoning ROMAINE ELECTRIC in Washington the state. Order an alternator (I prefer new over rebuilt) order a 3G alternator and also order...
Phone - 800-426-5005
Fax - 425-264-0488
...STATOR LEAD CONNECTOR PIGTAIL
Remove the old alternator and set aside. The volt reg plug slips out.
Cut off and strip wires to the HORRIBLE original connection bar
Cut off and strip the little white wire with black tracer stripe
Crimp or solder on the 6AWG x 1/4" ring terminal onto the 2 large black wires
Crimp using a red butt connector the small white wire onto the new pigtail.
The original voltage regulator plug is EXACTLY the same. ZERO CHANGES
Find the hole on the side of the new 3G and push on the STATOR PIGTAIL
Mount the new alt. I recommend a new Gates GREEN STRIPE belt.
Sell your old 2G for whatever you can get for it.
You will be astounded at the improvement. P.S. New alternators outperform rebuilt alternators.
You have a 2nd generation Ford alternator commonly referred to as an "IAR". They are HORRIBLE for both performance and for reliability. They have caused thousands of harness fires. Instead of a nut and bolt connecting the battery lead to the alternator some shipdit at Ford pushed through dual .250" Packard PUSH-ON terminal connection and this is where the fires occur. This alternator has an INTEGRAL voltage regulator colored BLACK and your new voltage regulator will also be colored black. The folks who recommended the Lester 7070 70-90 amp large frame alternator were unaware of this. Those alternators use an EXTERNAL F540 voltage regulator.
Look at the orientation of the mounting ears on your alternator. Is the base (called the FOOT) 180 degrees opposite the top threaded ear? If it is, good. Keep reading.
A later model Ford alternator referred to as a "3G" (third generation) is almost a bolt-on and boy the difference in reliability and performance (sans exaggeration) is night & day. Not only more output but three to four times the output at idle and low speed).
The little ear connects to a bracket. Can you loosen the bolt on the other end of this bracket and swing it open to accept a slightly larger alternator? Good. If yes, you can upgrade to the larger Ford 3-G rated at 130 amperes. It will output 60 amps at dead, in-gear idle.
If the little ear adjustment bracket is fixed you can go with the smaller version 3G which is rated 95 amps. It will output 46 amps at idle.
You will need to strip off the horrid original bar connector. Crimp on a new SIX GAUGE by 1/4" hole ring terminal. I prefer to solder.
There is a very small wire also connected to your original horrid bar terminal connector. It needs to go to a special terminal on any of the 3G alternators. So you will cut this wire and BUTT TERMINAL CRIMP it to a new pigtail that you will order along with the alternator.
I much recommend telephoning ROMAINE ELECTRIC in Washington the state. Order an alternator (I prefer new over rebuilt) order a 3G alternator and also order...
Phone - 800-426-5005
Fax - 425-264-0488
...STATOR LEAD CONNECTOR PIGTAIL
Remove the old alternator and set aside. The volt reg plug slips out.
Cut off and strip wires to the HORRIBLE original connection bar
Cut off and strip the little white wire with black tracer stripe
Crimp or solder on the 6AWG x 1/4" ring terminal onto the 2 large black wires
Crimp using a red butt connector the small white wire onto the new pigtail.
The original voltage regulator plug is EXACTLY the same. ZERO CHANGES
Find the hole on the side of the new 3G and push on the STATOR PIGTAIL
Mount the new alt. I recommend a new Gates GREEN STRIPE belt.
Sell your old 2G for whatever you can get for it.
You will be astounded at the improvement. P.S. New alternators outperform rebuilt alternators.
