My bad. I was unaware that some double digit IQ RV OEM would dare fit a tiny 75 amp Mitsubishi alt to an RV. 75 amperes is barely enough for a car never mind an RV. Today's fuel injection pumps suck 12-18 amps. Deduct headlight, and running lights, throw in a working chassis A/C unit and a person would be fortunate in itself to have -any- spare amperage. The 75 amp Mitsubishi does not have the same mounting as the 40/90 Bosch or Mitsubishi. The 50/120 Mitsubishi can replace either the Bosch or Mitsubishi 40/90 amp but the pulleys cannot interchange. I bought a drawerfull of 100 watt 10 ohm power resistors to fool the ECU regulator. But my eye is on a Ford 175 amp alt. I will strip off the reg and convert it to an external reg.
NONE of the above is do-able for the home mechanic.
Find a large automotive electrical rebuilder shop and let THEM puzzle out how to fit a more powerful alternator. Is everyone here offering advice SURE this alternator has an ECU regulator? It amounts to a bunch of hunches and guesswork until the job has been surveyed by a professional. Alternator, isolator and wiring need to be eyeballed by someone who knows their business. But I will offer this without hesitation - rectifier based isolators have lots of fins to contribute to global warming. They are a loser. Integrated one-piece electronic relay isolators are the way to go.
A 75 amp alt is a loser as well. Like a Fire Truck using a garden hose.
Are there competant rebuilders out there any more? Or is it a dying art?