rwess wrote:
It should not really be that major of a job to repair. I see 3 choices:
1. Remove actuators and replace all gaskets and O rings yourself.
2. Remove actuators and take to hydraulic shop for them to repack.
3. Take trailer to hydraulic shop for them to do everything.
There could still be one other possible cause. You could have a leak in a hose and that would allow the static pressure to bleed off.
My 1999 Innsbruck 5th wheel had hydraulic slideouts. The entire package is extremely heavy and took up a lot of space. One area for the pump and reservoir, hoses to cylinders. More slideouts means more hoses and actuators. I have had numerous campers since and none have had that system since. Electric motors and gearboxes or electric motors/gearboxes/chains/cables are all that I see now. I do not know what they use in the large motor homes. I adhere to the KISS principal, keep it simple stupid. Electric motors and gearboxes are simpler and lighter than a full hydraulic system and a lot less cumberson and lighter.
Excellent post. EXCEPT your first sentence. IT IS NOT AN "easy" REPAIR TO DO. Especially for a novice. You have to TEST each cylinder separately to determine which MAY have an internal seal bypass leak. Hopefully, the problem will be back at the pump and will be a solenoid or check valve bypassing. It is NOT a good idea to install blocks to "hold" a creeping Hydraulic room IN. Depending on the static pressure of the system(the rooms are kept retracted by PRESSURE), the wood blocks can be shoved and break the interior wall panel or the Slide interior fascia's, until the static pressure equalizes. The creep will stop after a few inches once the Hydraulic pressure is relieved from the room creep. Doug