Small Battery Charger "Made In USA"
Well, it looks like it would work OK. Where's the timer switch? http://www.usabatterychargers.com/126ST.htm
Forum Discussion
GRUMBLE GRUMBLE SNORT
I am damned near to the point of making an cranky decision...
BUILD inline timer power cords. Build them the right way. Plug on one end and outlet on the other end. Timer 18" from socket end
Why is it so hard to get manufacturers to THINK? A timer cord has to be ultra-heavy duty: Green Dot terminations are light-years more rugged than conventional plugs and sockets.
SJO cord is utterly limp even at -10F. It can be wound tight without memory or damage.
Liquid-Tite TYPE strain reliefs are bullet-proof. Properly sized and assembled they simply will not allow a cord to slip.
INTERMATIC TIMERS like everything else listed are pricey. Twist the knob and SEE how much time you selected. Gas station bathroom lights, rugged.
PLASTIC RECEPTACLE BOX to house the timer switch. Metal boxes belong where you cannot touch them. Certainly not on a power cord.
HOSPITAL GREEN DOT Plugs and receptacles are available in transparent LEXAN unbreakable plastic. Also known for bullet-proofing teller windows. Better grade of conductor alloy. Thicker. Stronger. Tighter gripping. Transparent means an ability to SEE inside and verify conditions of connections.
SJO CORD. There are several "grades" of "rubber" extension cord insulation. SJO is one of the thickest. Not only the jacket is thicker but also three three wires inside have thicker insulation. The BIGGEE with SJO and related thinner cable is it's flexibility. I can wind up a TEN GAUGE SJO cord in 10F weather to a 12" roll and release it. It just lies there, limp. Other cords are likely to spring back and slap me alongside the chops.
SOLDERED SPADE (fork shaped) TERMINALS. No need to explain the value of soldering. The fork terminal slips underneath the plug and socket captive screws and presents a much better electrical contact than simply squeezing wire strands. Then the captive screws can be tightened holy-bejeezus-tight. No matter how hot this connection gets, a thousand heating and cooling cycles can not cause this termination to loosen. Heat would come from plugging this cord into a bum receptacle. I proved this theory which is no longer theory.
SILICONE DIELECTRIC GREASE. Used on all assembled connections. This stops hidden corrosion, dead. Even squirt some into the blade sockets on the female end.
Everything I touch these days comes from Panda Land and it is screaming JUNK! Extension cords especially. 12 gauge that is actually 13.4 gauge. Plastic jacketing that not only is springy, it is not durable. Cord ends that overheat at less than rated capacity.
And I want a RELIABLE TIMER. Not gizmo grade digital with programming difficulty that rivals the old Windows 3.0 DOS. I don't need a strong light and strong reading glasses to see menu options that make using the timer ridiculous.
Time to go online and start shopping. Heck I might even build an EXTRA.
I am damned near to the point of making an cranky decision...
BUILD inline timer power cords. Build them the right way. Plug on one end and outlet on the other end. Timer 18" from socket end
- 12 feet in length. 12/3 gauge 600 volt SJO super flexible wire
- HOSPITAL grade Lexan (unbreakable) plug and socket
- Hospital grade is the BMW of connectors. Super heavy duty
- Plastic receptacle box for safety
- Grommet strain relief fittings in and out of the box
- Nylon (unbreakble) face plate
- Six hour spring wound INTERMATIC timer
- All connections are soldered or have soldered spade terminals.
Why is it so hard to get manufacturers to THINK? A timer cord has to be ultra-heavy duty: Green Dot terminations are light-years more rugged than conventional plugs and sockets.
SJO cord is utterly limp even at -10F. It can be wound tight without memory or damage.
Liquid-Tite TYPE strain reliefs are bullet-proof. Properly sized and assembled they simply will not allow a cord to slip.
INTERMATIC TIMERS like everything else listed are pricey. Twist the knob and SEE how much time you selected. Gas station bathroom lights, rugged.
PLASTIC RECEPTACLE BOX to house the timer switch. Metal boxes belong where you cannot touch them. Certainly not on a power cord.
HOSPITAL GREEN DOT Plugs and receptacles are available in transparent LEXAN unbreakable plastic. Also known for bullet-proofing teller windows. Better grade of conductor alloy. Thicker. Stronger. Tighter gripping. Transparent means an ability to SEE inside and verify conditions of connections.
SJO CORD. There are several "grades" of "rubber" extension cord insulation. SJO is one of the thickest. Not only the jacket is thicker but also three three wires inside have thicker insulation. The BIGGEE with SJO and related thinner cable is it's flexibility. I can wind up a TEN GAUGE SJO cord in 10F weather to a 12" roll and release it. It just lies there, limp. Other cords are likely to spring back and slap me alongside the chops.
SOLDERED SPADE (fork shaped) TERMINALS. No need to explain the value of soldering. The fork terminal slips underneath the plug and socket captive screws and presents a much better electrical contact than simply squeezing wire strands. Then the captive screws can be tightened holy-bejeezus-tight. No matter how hot this connection gets, a thousand heating and cooling cycles can not cause this termination to loosen. Heat would come from plugging this cord into a bum receptacle. I proved this theory which is no longer theory.
SILICONE DIELECTRIC GREASE. Used on all assembled connections. This stops hidden corrosion, dead. Even squirt some into the blade sockets on the female end.
Everything I touch these days comes from Panda Land and it is screaming JUNK! Extension cords especially. 12 gauge that is actually 13.4 gauge. Plastic jacketing that not only is springy, it is not durable. Cord ends that overheat at less than rated capacity.
And I want a RELIABLE TIMER. Not gizmo grade digital with programming difficulty that rivals the old Windows 3.0 DOS. I don't need a strong light and strong reading glasses to see menu options that make using the timer ridiculous.
Time to go online and start shopping. Heck I might even build an EXTRA.
