Small crack in fiberglass - how serious?

You didn't say where the crack was. If its on the roof, put a piece of duct tape over it until your dealer gets back with you. If new the dealer should replace entire panel.

The BEST repair on this type crack is to have the Body Shop sand it down and then fiberglass the area sand it and then paint the complete area. Replacing a Cap either front or rear is not the best way to do it for this type of problem. The dealer can only do what the manufacturer of the RV will allow them to do. Doug

Looks like something trying to come out.

thats what I though ,go inside and search that area.

Too long of a screw inside.

Dealer should be able to fix it and you'll never know it was there.

However, depending on if there was something trying to come through the siding you may have similar problems in other spots as road vibration and sidewall movement causes flexing.

Is this a jell-coat crack? or a paint crack?

Looks to me like something protruding from within also.

If I were repairing this, I'd mix some jell-coat to match, squeegee it into the crack, allow to set, sand flat and buff, it should blend in. but you'll always see it because you know its there.

Thanks very much for all the replies. I also thought it might be a fastener of some kind that was driven too deep. It's hard to tell from the inside where exactly the crack is on the outside. I don't know enough about fiberglass to know if this is a crack in the gel coat or what.

I just heard back from the dealer, and they are submitting this to the manufacturer today and expect to get back to me on Monday or Tuesday. The dealer said they have a body shop that does fiberglass repairs, and they expect that's how this would be taken care of.

I agree that there is likely something pointed behind there pushing out. If new I would insist they remove either the outside panel or inside panel and find the problem. Sanding smooth and patching is not a good option.

The OP has a Hybrid. This is in a sidewall or end wall below a bunk door as it has no front or rear cap, nor a fiberglass roof. There is no "removing panels" as it's laminated one piece construction. It also is almost certainly a screw driven too deep, as I have seen that condition on more than a couple of new trailers. All the OP has to do is look inside and find the screw. Probably in a cabinet or dinette bench rail. Whether discovered at the PDI or not, that should not be an issue, but expect the manufacturer to make it one so load your guns.

The floor panel is put on the frame, then the sidewalls. Everything inside is then attached into sheet metal backers that were laminated in behind the inner plywood of the wall panel. At least you hope they used metal backers, because its not unheard of for cabinets and other items to only be attached into 1/8" thick luan plywood so they can come off later. It may take removing some access panels in the cabinetry, but the guilty screw should be easily found, then take a bunch of pictures inside and out. Try to do so with with a tape measure in them from a point of reference, to prove its the guilty screw. Depending on the manufacturer they may attempt every trick play they have in the book to get out of it.....especially if it's Forest River.

I would never accept that on a new trailer and sending it off to some body shop is a Mickey Mouse shoemaker type of fix. The way that is properly repaired is to send it back to the factory and they replace the entire sidewall. It's done more often than people realize. Now if it was 10 years old then having some nose picker grinding and sanding away on it down at Earl Schieb might be the correct course of action, but on a new trailer?