Solar - Portable Suitcase

The cables were to short for me so I replaced them with These it runs just fine.

I also hard wired one end to the battery then made a connection using MC 4connectors that way I can put the unit where I want it and then connect the pig tail that is mounted under the edge on the RV.

BTW that little Assembly Tool makes things much easier.

The one thing that you will want to check and verify is if the "pre-wire" ZAMP deal has a solar controller already built into it or if it uses the solar controller most commonly found mounted on the back of the portable solar panels.

If by being "ZAMP portable solar ready" includes a solar controller mounted somewhere in the coach then you will need to make sure that your Renogy panels operate within the specs of that controller. Probably nothing to worry about here since you have a 100w panel but I would make sure the operating voltage and amp ratings are good.

If there is no controller in the coach then the ZAMP port on the side of your trailer leads directly to the batteries. In that case I guess you would try to find the male or female end of the connector that they are using and you can replace the connector that came with your Renogy kit.

If your trailer already has a controller and your Renogy portable panels also have a controller and you plug the panels into the ZAMP port then I am not sure what the consequences of that would be. It probably would just not work.

Anyways once you figure out your controller setup you can then make the choice to plug into the port on the trailer or just wire a lead from the battery to a anderson type plug connector and then the same on the renogy panel to make it easy. Or just use alligator clips direct to the batteries.

mrkoje wrote:
The one thing that you will want to check and verify is if the "pre-wire" ZAMP deal has a solar controller already built into it or if it uses the solar controller most commonly found mounted on the back of the portable solar panels.

If by being "ZAMP portable solar ready" includes a solar controller mounted somewhere in the coach then you will need to make sure that your Renogy panels operate within the specs of that controller. Probably nothing to worry about here since you have a 100w panel but I would make sure the operating voltage and amp ratings are good.

If there is no controller in the coach then the ZAMP port on the side of your trailer leads directly to the batteries. In that case I guess you would try to find the male or female end of the connector that they are using and you can replace the connector that came with your Renogy kit.

If your trailer already has a controller and your Renogy portable panels also have a controller and you plug the panels into the ZAMP port then I am not sure what the consequences of that would be. It probably would just not work.

Anyways once you figure out your controller setup you can then make the choice to plug into the port on the trailer or just wire a lead from the battery to a anderson type plug connector and then the same on the renogy panel to make it easy. Or just use alligator clips direct to the batteries.

Good questions! The ZAMP connector seems like a generic connector that will accept this type of cable connector:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-POLE-CONNECTOR/dp/B002OPHRXW/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1467816103&sr=1-4&keywords=2-pole+flat+trailer+connector

The wires from the connector look like they go directly to the battery or battery terminal. No controller seems to be mounted anywhere in the camper. A little dishonest saying it's wired for a ZAMP solar system. It's a generic connector that goes directly to the battery. I was disappointed when I saw the price of the system compared to the Renogy.

IAMICHABOD:

Do you also have a Renogy portable suitcase? My cable is about 10' long and has MC4 connectors about 2' from the pigtail that's connects to the controller. The other end has alligator clamps. Since my batteries are covered and vented in the front compartment of my 5th wheel, it's inconvenient to connect the alligator clamps directly to the battery. I would like to build a new 20' cable that will plug into the existing MC4 connectors and then connect the other end into the receptacle on my trailer. I have a photo of my connector but can't seem to upload it to the post. The connector is a 2-pole receptacle that would take something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-POLE-CONNECTOR/dp/B002OPHRXW/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1467816103&sr=1-4&keywords=2-pole+flat+trailer+connector

Are the cables you reference very flexible? The connector on my camper doesn't seem very stout. I wonder if I should have a smaller gauge transition to the 2-pole connector so I'm not applying any torque or force on the connector with the weight and stiffness of the cable pulling down on the connector.

It sounds like I can buy the MC4 connector tool and install MC4 connectors on one end to mate with my existing cable and then install a 2-pole connector on the other end to mate with my camper, or buy the cable you referenced and attach the 2-pole connector on the pigtail end.

Thanks for the link to the MC4 cables and assembly tool!

I bought a GoPower 120w portable unit 2 years ago and wish I didn't, the quality is good but not superior if at all to what Renogy has. The connector is made by Anderson

Yes I have the Renogy Portable Suitcase,the 20 ft cable that I bought is very flexible.

You can get that cable and hook the MC4 connector to the pigtail from the controller to the extension then put the flat pole on it so it would mate up to your existing setup. Which should work out just fine.

I have seen reports of others that have done the same with no problems.

The reason I did not do this is that the pig tail from the controller is 14 AWG and the extension is 12AWG. I wanted the same Gauge wire all the way from controller to the battery,at that length I wanted less loss of voltage. I used the MC4 connectors for a better connection and better waterproof protection.

jstaffon wrote:
A little dishonest saying it's wired for a ZAMP solar system. It's a generic connector that goes directly to the battery.

Pre-wired is just pre-wired, i.e. only wire is there. They probably meant that you have to use certain panels - presumably from ZAMP? - that have same 2 pole connector. Most panels these days have a different type of connector - MC4 or similar.

I have yet to see a rig properly pre-wired for solar. Unless they throw it in for free, paying for odd connectors and #12 wires that will at best handle 100-150W - doesn't make sense. Permanent install that small isn't worth the trouble, IMO.

buy the SAE connector, wire to 20' of 12/2 landscape wire, wire to controller (remove existing pig), add an in line fuse if ya like. Plug into trailer.

If ya like, use batt type other and program longer abs time or higher abs voltage or not.

IAMICHABOD wrote:
Yes I have the Renogy Portable Suitcase,the 20 ft cable that I bought is very flexible.

You can get that cable and hook the MC4 connector to the pigtail from the controller to the extension then put the flat pole on it so it would mate up to your existing setup. Which should work out just fine.

I have seen reports of others that have done the same with no problems.

The reason I did not do this is that the pig tail from the controller is 14 AWG and the extension is 12AWG. I wanted the same Gauge wire all the way from controller to the battery,at that length I wanted less loss of voltage. I used the MC4 connectors for a better connection and better waterproof protection.

What angle do you use for your setup? In Idaho the Latitude is roughly 44 degrees. According to the manual, the panels should be at 29 degrees (Lat - 15) in the summer. I haven't figured out yet how to configure the legs on the panels to support at 30 degrees. Seems like a comfortable setting that seems sturdy is around 45 degrees. What am I missing?

Btw, will a 12 gauge MC4 connector plug into a 14 gauge MC4 connector?

I would not spend the time worrying about having precise angle to the sun. Make the panel stable and get the best angle you can by "eyeballing it"