Solar Kit

SkiSmuggs wrote:
For those following and not happy with the Renogy controller not being programmable, Renogy sells a programmable model as well, originally StarView if memory serves, but now Solar30. My original suitcase system from them came with a 10 amp StarView which I programmed per the Trojan specs. It is always a good idea to check the settings as mine came set for AGM default.

Also check the voltage it settles on as its high set point you dialled in, with a separate meter to confirm the voltage. On my Solar30 it goes over the setting so I have to dial in a bit less to get the right amount. Very good controller and I like the amps read-out it has too.

EP Solar makes a ViewStar PWM controller now instead of their previous LandStar model. They also make the Tracer line of MPPT controllers.

Eco-Worthy makes a 20a MPPT controller some of us have, but also on their website is a Solar30. Those Solar30s appear in many brand versions by different names but you can't miss them when seen.

For those following and not happy with the Renogy controller not being programmable, Renogy sells a programmable model as well, originally StarView if memory serves, but now Solar30. My original suitcase system from them came with a 10 amp StarView which I programmed per the Trojan specs. It is always a good idea to check the settings as mine came set for AGM default.

Hi Glen,

I look forward to further reports! The only thing I know is that you will love having solar.

Well I postponed the roof coating until after this camping season. Installed the 2 100w panels and got everything wired up. It came with #10 from panels to controller. The distance from controller to batteries was a little farther than I thought so I ran #8 wire to the batteries. This evening when I got done the sun was setting. No direct sun on the panels and it read 6.5a @ the batteries. Will check tomorrow in full sun. Gotta love Az it was 83* today. I was breaking a sweat on the roof.

DAS26miles wrote:
Thanks, you guys are correct about voltage. I went to Norcold site and checked manual on my N611.

"DC Voltage Requirements and Polarity
Operating controls require 10.5 to 15.4 Vdc to operate."

So 15.5V is the max.

Plenty of head room, Voltage wise to allow your batteries to be top charged.

However, if doing a 16.0V equalization charge session on your batteries, disconnect the batteries from everything on your motorhome but the charger.

Thanks, you guys are correct about voltage. I went to Norcold site and checked manual on my N611.

"DC Voltage Requirements and Polarity
Operating controls require 10.5 to 15.4 Vdc to operate."

So 15.5V is the max.

I called Dometics a couple months back and asked about the high voltage issue for smoking the fridge as my solar controller is set to 15.4, I was told they are fine to 18 volts. I had supplied my model, rml8555, if that makes a difference.

DAS26miles wrote:
Ninerbikes-thanks for the info, at Quartzsite I used the generator with the Intelli power charge wizard and the Xantrex battery charger and when the volts got up to 14.4 on my battery monitor, I pulled both fuses for the fridge and furnace.
If I get a solar kit, I won't have to worry will I?

No worries with a folding solar panel kit. Measured at 14.4V at the controller.

A demonstration on a battery should answer all your questions... bring a Digital Multimeter with you, if you have one.

Hi,

The "weakest" board I've heard of is good to 15.4 volts.

DAS26miles wrote:
Ninerbikes-thanks for the info, at Quartzsite I used the generator with the Intelli power charge wizard and the Xantrex battery charger and when the volts got up to 14.4 on my battery monitor, I pulled both fuses for the fridge and furnace.
If I get a solar kit, I won't have to worry will I?

My Powermax Boondocker conv shows 14.8 @ the batteries. But with small wires & fuse going to the appliances I have never had an issue with any failures.