scroller95969 wrote:
1. Should I mount these larger panels with 4 or 6 mounting points? Would rather do 4 if the panel will support its own weight and will not tear through the roof. Plan to make them tilt for roof access.
2. I am thinking on using molly bolts or toggle bolts to lessen the chance of pullout from the roof. Also thinking of making brackets out of 1/4" X 2 1/2" aluminum angle cut into opposing L brackets. Is there a reason to use stainless steel bolts mounting to the roof since I am going to cover everything with Dicor? I would use stainless bolts and nuts above the roof mounts however I am a little worried about galvanic corrosion having the stainless touching the aluminum.
Again thanks for all of your help, Jeff.
1) 4 mounting brackets per panel, with at least 2 screws in the roof per bracket.
2) I think you are talking something similar to what Mr.Wizard and Bigfootford did. See their installs in
This list. Also check quite unusual solution by Smkettner.
Molly bolts or tapping screws, there are pros and cons. Molly bolt is better when roof is thin or you can't drive screws into rafters.
Tilt is a pain. More complicated install and - usually - more rattle when it's lowered down flat.
Electrochemical corrosion occurs with 2 dissimilar metals
when both are immersed in electrolyte. Cover the heads with sealant to prevent contact with water, then there won't be no galvanic pair.
Oh yeah, and the recent thread
here.
With items that you mentioned, your power drain looks too high if you are running a genny 2 hours and still losing charge. There must something else besides TV and furnace. Maybe you run microwave often, maybe countless cups on 1,500W coffee maker. Maybe "computer" - if this is a desktop, it draws A LOT more than laptop. You can reduce energy drain a lot by replacing the furnace with catalytic heater, getting energy-efficient LED TV and LED lights. Reducing it further would mean replacing or eliminating some of your kitchen gadgets - I won't go there.