Rbertalotto wrote:
In that case you simply have your "solar meter" (where the controller does not have its own) on the output of the controller before the Trimetric's shunt.
The controller has simple LEDs to show condition. And they blink at various rates to indicate various things....Very confusing. Since I don't look at it often, I need to take the owners manual out each time.
I'm going to recheck my wiring and configure as you suggest. But again, I think your configuration will now tell me what is coming from the controller and not just what the solar panel is sending.
Once the battery is "full", the controller tapers off so it is not showing a true reading of the panel. I think reading the panels output would be great for orientation to the sun.
The PWM controller "passes through" what the panel is doing until battery voltage reaches the controller's high set point (14.4v?) The controller then starts controlling so the voltage can't go any higher.
The Trimetric only shows what is going into or out of the battery. So if your battery is so full it is only accepting 3 amps but solar can do 7 amps, then when you run a 4 amp load, it does not show on the Trimetric, which still shows the 3 amps going into the battery from solar.
But your solar meter will show 7 amps output from the controller.
If the load were 6 amps, the battery wants 3, and solar can do 7, now the Trimetric would show 1 amp to battery, and the solar meter would show 7 amps.
You can orient the panel by using its output as suggested. Might need a second person to read the meter while panel is moved. Or you can use a regular digital meter on the panel's wires at the panel with the panel disconnected from battery. You need alligator clips on the meter or you run out of hands to hold everything :)