Solar Panel Problem?

Rbertalotto wrote:

But your solar meter will show 7 amps output from the controller.

But wouldn't the controller lower the current to the battery if the battery is at a full charge? Down to just about nothing?

This is why I'm interested in seeing the current from the solar panel and not from the controller. I can easily extrapolate what the controller is doing from the Trimetric unit.

But if I can't get the amp meter to work off the solar panel I guess I'll just have to use voltage to orient the panel.

Yes, the battery acceptance rate declines as it nears full charge and you see on the Trimetric what the battery is getting. That may be less than what it can accept if there are other loads.

You will find you have a standing load of about 0.8 amp from various loads that are always on. So you derive your solar input by adding that.

OK, so now the frustrating thing is you believe the panel can do 7 amps right now but the battery and other loads are only taking 3.8 amps and you want to know just how many amps the solar could be doing right now since you can't see that 7 or whatever it might be.

One way is to disconnect the panel, take the Isc across the terminals, and reconnect. The Isc will be anything depending on how much light the panel is getting up to its rated Isc of 7.6a (120w panel) or it could go higher than rated Isc if getting edge of cloud effect.

Now you know for that moment what the panel could do. Say in this case Isc was 7a that moment.

Another way with less effort :) is to start adding load until Trimetric amps go from pos to neg. You might be as above with 3 amps showing on Tri, add your unseen 0.8 standing load and you know the solar is doing 3.8a. Turn on two 3a lights and watch Tri amps go to 0.2a That means you are using almost all the solar now to run the 6.8a loads. So you had about 3.2 amps "spare" solar when doing 3.8