Search for "solar panel weather damage" returned zero results.Both my dad and I have TT's with solar charging systems. His came with his TT and was installed by the dealer on that TT when it was new. Dad is the 2nd owner. Mine was researched, purchased, and installed myself. He has been having some battery issues lately and recently inspected his panel. He found it to be quite damaged with many cells shorted out, he says he sees black burn marks. He also sees lots of condensation and cracks. His panel is mounted flat on a flat roof and he associates what appears to be weather damage from our cold Montana winters and freeze/thaw cycles. My panels are also mounted flat, but my roof has a slight camber so the panels are not parallel to the ground. He recommended that this slight tilt may not be enough to avoid weather-induced damage and that I should consider covering the TT in the winters. I prefer to leave it uncovered so that the panels maintain the batteries all winter. I do plug in to shore power when the panels are covered in snow and the battery voltage starts to sag so the converter will charge them. I prefer to leave it uncovered, but what do some others think of Dad's advice with respect to the solar panels' ability to cope with weather and freeze/thaw cycles? Thanks.

Searching for that 'exact phrase' is likely to return nothing, yes. I used 'all words in any order' and got some hits, but nothing appeared relevant.I think your dad is right. Continual freezing and thawing, especially with snow to form a dam, will ruin most anything. Panels may have a warranty..perhaps 5 years on physical damage. At 5 years old I had a BP panel short out and reveal a burn spot on the back. I found it as I was wiping the panels down one day, and noticed a really hot spot. The panel was reduced to 50% capacity. BP replaced it, no problem. All they needed was the serial number.Were I to be in your position, I'd tilt the panels to 45 degrees.

I have had mine on my trailer since 2002 and no problems like you are describing so far. But my roof does have some camber to it. Also it might also depend on the quality of the panel, I know there are differences.

You could cover with plexiglass to allow sun but reduce standing water.Or tilt the RV a bit to exaggerate the slope that you already have. Tilt toward the sun for best results. Possibly update the mounts to allow tilting.Anyway put some water up there and see how much pooling you get. Maybe even a rag in the corner would wick away most of the water before it froze.Or maybe your dad's panels had a defect or no bypass diodes?

Thanks for the responses.When I first mounted my panels I kept going back and forth between tiltable or flat and fixed. I settled on flat and fixed since we don't winter camp. But now having dealt with a couple winters and the occasional need to plug in while parked despite having solar has me considering changing the configuration to tiltable. Sounds like a need to protect the panels from weather might be another reason to tilt them.What are some folk's favorite easy methods to change over to tiltable? Currently they are mounted with 6 Z-brackets each. My thought is I just need the ability to tilt in one direction since I only plan on tilting for winter storage. And since it is for winter storage only I just need one tilt position. 45 degree tilt?

Hi,Panels are supposed to be installed 6 degrees from flat so that water will drain from them.Your Dad's panels are done, unfortunately.

Solar panel weather-resistance w/ permanent flat mounting

20 Replies

Almot
Explorer III
May 03, 2014
Mex, aluminum corrosion is very, very slow. Though it goes faster when electrochemical corrosion of dissimilar metals kicks in, like around a stainless bolt in aluminum frame. But this latter kind of corrosion requires wet contact between dissimilar metals. If you are getting plenty of rain there - in addition to salty air - this can do a lot of damage.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
May 03, 2014
Yeah the Mojave desert was GREAT for no corrosion as well. That's why they have aircraft used car sales lots and storage there. Down here Almost your setup would last less than a year. The glass cover would be all that's left.
Almot
Explorer III
May 02, 2014
Panels are better today than they used to be. 12-15 years ago they used transparent plastic instead of glass, it scratched easily, and leads between the cells so poor that they delaminated. Mounting brackets I just painted with Rustoleum oil paint. With 1/4" aluminum angle that I am using, it would take forever for corrosion to eat through the bracket even without paint.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
May 02, 2014
Phantoms.

But unlike many of you, I have to deal with panels operating in a tropical marine environment so salty, cars have to be washed daily, or covered if you don't to drive and see the road between your toes, and Orion's Belt where the dome light used to be.

This is what I do. Silicone GREASE, and q-tips. Run a bead around the glass lip of the panel and force the grease in wherever it can be forced. Flip the panel over and see of there are any beads, or seams and do the same thing. Remove the connector cover and squirt the grease into the box. Freakin' BURY the connectors. Next. ANHYDROUS LANOLIN. You can buy it at drug stores that are still drug stores. It comes as a thick paste. Smear it all over everything but the glass. Lay it on. I mean THICK. Like Stucco. Yes, the aluminum mounting too.

This really helps panels survive corrosion. You mileage may vary.
ewarnerusa
Nomad
May 02, 2014
So my dad had his panel removed to do some close inspection and troubleshooting. He was shocked to find that the multimeter indicated that he still gets peak voltage and amps from it under direct sun. The black scorch marks don't look as bad as he thought, and what he though was condensation just seems like the patterns in the glass(?).
mena661
Explorer
May 02, 2014
Unyalli wrote:
None the less I'm building my own mounting feet out of 2x3x1/4" 6061-T6 structural aluminum angle.
Nice work!
Unyalli
Explorer
May 02, 2014
There are literally thousands of panels mounted on RV roofs with these little stainless brackets and two stainless screws. I've not heard one instance where these failed. None the less I'm building my own mounting feet out of 2x3x1/4" 6061-T6 structural aluminum angle. These will mount with 4 #12 stainless screws and 3M 5200 to my rubber roof with 3/8 plywood underneath. Should withstand Wyoming (I hope).

-Jeff
mchero
Explorer
May 02, 2014
When will we start seeing auto tilting panels?

I just aquired an 07 Discovery & am looking to place two high voltage panels. I think I'll start a thread on my solar adventure.

RM
westend
Explorer
May 02, 2014
Bucking the good advice here (and the winds), I've had my panel tilted at 58 for the whole Winter. It will take a day or two to shed a few inches of snow. I do have some substantial mounts, 3- 36" pieces of aluminum "U" channel, bedded in sealant and screwed into roof joists.
Jack_Mayer
Explorer
May 01, 2014
You are asking for trouble leaving panels at 45* unattended all winter. Quality panels should not be affected by the weather. Period. Mounting them with a slight tilt should be all that is required, and that just helps rain wash dirt off. 2*-6* is all that is needed for a "wash cycle". And flat does not really hurt anything.