My Class C is a 2003 so eventually I might have to replace the generator. I wonder about going solar. Our camping is a mixture of sites with elec. hook-up and no hook-ups. We like national parks which rarely have elec. I've read that some folks with a full solar set up don't even plug in when it's available. All the tech details freak me out so can you give me an idea of what I would need to go mostly solar? Would I have to have different from my 2 middle size deep cycle batteries. Best, I assume to have the panels mounted on the roof? Could I run the AC, even at night? Approximate cost? Might it be less than generator rebuild or replacement? Would I give up anything ?

You will need first of all FULL SUN for hours and hours at every boondock site you camp at. Without sun, you will be screwed.Why does this point seem to be "massaged" by solar panel proponents? I guess they can tolerate 120F interior temperatures. Or maybe they live in cooler climes?MIRACLE POWER SYSTEMS! Come visit Mount McKinley, on Summer Solstice and you will not believe the powerhouse delivery of your solar panels!Once I pass the "how much sun is there?" point, then I start in on serious planning or abandon things entirely.

I think anyone who wants to run AC with solar needs to watch Gone With The Wynns' answer (even though they own a boat and not an RV now)click

Jayco-noslide wrote:could I run the AC, even at night? no.I think you should start here:12v side of life.

A/C from solar the short answer is No!The long answer is a very small window unit1400 Watts of solar on the roof and a large battery bankAnd you can have a few hours 3-4, of evening A/CGood A/C needs a generatorYou park in national parks and forests, you will get very little solarEnough to maintain the battery state, not enough to replace your daily use

Just got into the Class C thing after doing 5er for years. Got solar which is useless in forested camp sites. No generator (yet?)Thing is, Class Cs have the magic of alternator charging AND you can use the smaller ones (our 28 is as big as you can go for this IMO) to also drive around in like we used to with the truck while leaving the 5er on site. All that driving around in the truck did nothing for the 5er, but it does replace some AH in the Class C. Plus you are not then under the trees either, so you get some solar if the weatherman permits.The other thing is to carry more batteries. Once again it is all about scenarios. You need about a battery per day off- grid, so if you want to stay five days and you only have two batts, you need to make up the diff of three batts by recharging. BUT--if you have four batts, now you only need to make up one batt's worth over the five days. Now you can apply a little alternator charging and any solar and get it done.Say you get 20 amps (a modest amount) then in one hour of driving around each day for five, that's 100AH --ie the size of one battery. If you are short two batteries with only two in the RV and your stay is four days, now you can still manage, but have to drive around two hours a day, or be getting 40 amps from the alternator, so you can do it with still the one hour a day driving. (You can also just idle for a while)We are still learning how to do all this kind of thing with the Class C, but it is not like the 5er at all. Also you can just move to the campground parking lot during the day and get some solar time, while still being in the park. Go back to your site for supper and back to the parking lot after breakfast. Whatever. Might still need a generator depending on scenario, but a Class C means you have some interesting options not available with a trailer.

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19 Replies

Almot
Explorer III
Jan 11, 2018
What Wiz said.
Upgrade your vents, and/or add FanTastic 12V box fan. Good to upper 80s. When it hits mid-90s, it's tough, better hang out outside in the shade. Or move to RV park with hook-ups.
Jayco-noslide wrote:
It's looking to me that with our camping at elec. sites more than 50% of the time, major solar is not in our future. The only thing we really lack now is wanting to be without Elec(in a nat'l park) and being hot at night; no air, and we wouldn't solve that with solar.

Again, read Wiz's post because you don't understand some things. Just trust him :).
In daytime solar often generates more energy than battery needs (not talking about A/C). This excess can be used to run the fans. It can also be used to charge BIG battery bank and then run all the fans all night. So, major solar and major battery bank will help, to certain point.

I suspect that solar panels raised 3-4 inches help keeping the roof cooler. In the afternoon when sun moves to the part of the roof not covered with panels, it's getting much hotter. Should've covered the whole roof.
MrWizard
Moderator
Jan 11, 2018
i have used the inverter to run a BOX Fan all night, its Not A/C but yes we sleep OK, even run the Fan during the day, in places with limited Generator hours

just make sure you have the batteries and get them recharged
solar 'WILL' handle fans during the day
Jayco-noslide
Explorer
Jan 11, 2018
It's looking to me that with our camping at elec. sites more than 50% of the time, major solar is not in our future. The only thing we really lack now is wanting to be without Elec(in a nat'l park) and being hot at night; no air, and we wouldn't solve that with solar. If we ever really downsize to a small MH, not tow anything and want to boondock more then solar would make sense. Thanks to all.
Almot
Explorer III
Jan 09, 2018
2oldman wrote:
OP disappeared.

He said up front that technical details freak him out. Needed simple answers - yes, no, what to buy, how much.
Almot
Explorer III
Jan 09, 2018
Jayco-noslide wrote:
what I would need to go mostly solar?

300W solar array (or more), controller and at least 200AH battery bank. I would put as much panel wattage as there is room on the roof.
You would also need to camp "mostly" in the open.
Would I have to have different from my 2 middle size deep cycle batteries.

At least 200AH.
Best, I assume to have the panels mounted on the roof?

Yes.
Could I run the AC, even at night?

You mean, even at day? Not likely.
Approximate cost?

$1.50 per watt maybe, parts cost, all included.
Would I give up anything

You would have to camp in the open. Some people carry portable systems that they install in the open, while parked in the shade, and run 50-70ft cable, might work if you don't move the camp often.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jan 09, 2018
OP disappeared.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jan 09, 2018
I used a diesel generator to power multiple roof air units 24/7 in Quintana Roo

The generator consumed nine plus gallons in one day.

Then I changed oil, and filter to Yamaha's specs. Every 100 hours

Even at FIFTEEN CENTS per gallon

This was not cheap

Oh, did I mention the multiple 55 gallon drums, and trips to refill them?

Or CASES of oil filters and 5 gallon pails of Delo 400?
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jan 09, 2018
NUMBERS

180 ampere draw times 8 hours

1,440 ampere hours JUST for the A/C

Price this in Lithium or DOUBLE the number

JUST FOR the A/C not for lights, etc

2,880 amp hours

TWENTY FOUR golf car batteries

JUST FOR the A/C

SATURATION RECHARGING

150 amperes limit 14.8 volts applied THIRTEEN HOURS FOR RECHARGING

It would require an utterly open field and a huge SOLAR PANEL ARRAY

At summer latitudes equal to Whitehorse, Northwest Territories
valhalla360
Navigator
Jan 09, 2018
If you can live without air/con, it's very doable. Even modest microwave or coffee maker use is doable as they only run for short duration.

As mentioned, someone spent a lot of money and got a whole 3hrs of air/con use. When the temps are in the 90's during the day and 80's at night...is 3hrs of air/con going to make you comfortable?

For all practical purposes, it's not viable to run air/con on solar.
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Jan 08, 2018
MNGeeks61 wrote:
I think anyone who wants to run AC with solar needs to watch Gone With The Wynns' answer (even though they own a boat and not an RV now)

click

The quick answer is AC, without shore power or a generator, is not practical for the average person.

Deep cycle batteries are designed for repeated high discharge rates and can be discharged deeper that starting or mult-purpose batteries without damage. They will live longer in these situations.

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