Forum Discussion
pianotuna
Apr 02, 2023Nomad III
pbitschura wrote:3 tons wrote:As has been said, the wiring may not be heavy enough for a substantial system. I see little portable set ups. Can I then use this plug in for a battery maintainer to top it off while boondocking, maybe 100 watts or so? These, I believe come with a charge controller for a minimal system.pbitschura wrote:
Our new rv has an outdoor two pin plug-in for solar. What do I need to take advantage of it? What are it's benefits and limitations? We don't currently have any panels.
Most factory solar wiring is kinda minimalist in AWG wire gauge - you’ll be lucky if it’s #10 AWG gauge, and a lengthy roundtrip wire run (+ & -) adds to overall resistance (meaning excessive voltage drop - ugg…)…As such (if wiring panels in parallel) consider limiting your panel wattage to about 200w or so, or if more wattage is desired, consider wiring the panels in series (to help compensate for small’ish wire gauge) using an MPPT type controller that’ll exploit the higher voltage - or add a separate wiring run (of sufficiently gauge) from the roof-top down…This can often be accomplished by snaking the new wire down through the rooftop refer vent..
3 tons
A pwm system runs "at the battery voltage". They are basically a switch that closes and opens. As the battery charges they shut off and on with the on time getting shorter and shorter.
Depending on the size of the bank 100 watts may be fine to run directly to a good sized bank. This is not recommended.
Get a good MPPT controller and use the highest voltage on the panel input side of the controller alows.
This allows the use of residential panels which are cheaper per watt.
My personal preference is for polycrystalline. Why? Because in the real world they do better if there is any shade--and since this system is panels in series that's a big thing.
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