Forum Discussion
Gdetrailer
Jan 05, 2021Explorer III
BFL13 wrote:
...The OP's plan is not stupid. He just needs to get his spec numbers correct to make it work....
....If you want to save money, don't buy an RV. :)
No one said the "plan" was stupid.
However, unwise, wasteful, not the best use of a huge displacement engine, hard on the engine and drive train, hard on the alternator, yes..
No matter HOW you fudge "the numbers" you WILL be at an economic disadvantage using an automobile engine to fully recharge your "camping experience" battery(ies).
Efficiency is governed by the "Laws of Physics", those laws are unchangeable by you, me or anyone else in this world, they are set in stone. Sure you might have a 300HP capable engine idling for hrs on end and you are only making it work for a measly 1 HP worth of work.. But that engine is using much more than 1 HP worth of fuel per hr and that is reflected in a lot of wasted energy in the form of heat.
Some folks just are not able to visually see and analyze that in their head and MUST "demonstrate" and see it for themselves.. Myself I don't "need" "demonstrations" or "experiments" to realize that while it can be done, it is is very inefficient mechanically, physically and chemically to do so.
Engines REQUIRE very specific min fuel to air ratio just to keep it running, that minimum is a "constant" for ALL gas engines. A smaller engine working at half load will consequently use less fuel than a large displacement engine idling.
Granted with the advent of fuel injection, manufacturers can control the min fuel usage closer, but if you lean the mixture too much, you now run into the possibility of burning valves, damaging pistons and overheating the engine.. There is a fine line between destruction and fuel efficiency when it comes to leaning out an engine.
To the second point I quoted.. YES!Buying a RV is not "cheap living", pretty much the same as buying a boat.. Insert money and flush..
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