Spending too much $$ on batteries.

I previously had a Lifeline AGM. When it went bad, I replaced it with a $200 Universal AGM Battery. That was with free shipping. I have had the Universal for a couple of years. I went to the Universal, only due to cost.

I ran numerous test on my Lifeline, discharging and charging. You can only fully discharge any battery so many times. I have not subjected my Universal battery to the same treatment.

The following are claims made by Lifeline:

LIFELINE RV BATTERY BENEFITS

User Safe

sealed construction

non-spillable

install in any position if properly supported.

submersible without damage

Maintenance free (no adding water or repairing corroded terminals)

Fastest recharge. (no current limitations with voltage regulated recharging)

Deep Cycle (thick positive plates to provide real deep cycle performance)

Outstanding cranking performance (aircraft cell construction lowers internal resistance)

Best charge retention (especially against flooded cell types)

Lowest discharge rates (Less that 3 percent per month unattended)


For me, not needing maintenance alone is worth the extra expense. With a good three stage charger the other points are a bonus. I think most of the claims are transferable to other AGM batteries. So far, they appear to be with the Universal Battery.

I do not think this is true; "... since you will be able to make use of lower cost flooded wet cells which are able to withstand deeper discharges than a AGM." I would have to see something that supports the statement.

Wayne

realter wrote:
Last summer, after sitting on the truck for 6 weeks, both the truck battery and camper battery were dead. I believe I had disconnected the fuse. I charged the truck battery, but the camper battery never fully charged after that. When I stored it for the winter, the battery was fully charged, but within a few weeks it was "dead".

Last winter, I had a local camper dealer install something that prevented the camper battery from pulling the juice out of the truck camper. I don't have the reciept right now, but I hope whatever they did helps with that problem. Somebody told me I should have disconnected the "umbical cord" between the camper and the truck also.

Expensive learning.

According to your profile you have a GMC truck, I was under the impression that GMs trucks were setup simular to Fords which use a RELAY on the charge line. The function of the relay is to provide 12V to the charge line ONLY when the truck ignition is ON.

I think the camper dealer is TAKING your money...

First of all AGM batteries are a very expensive item to "learn on", I would suggest changing to a flooded or wet cell.

Yes, I know that your battery is inside the camper but with a few simple mods that CAN be changed.

You can buy a purpose made battery box which is sealed and has a vent which is connected via flexible tubing to the outside.

The cost of this mod will pay off since you will be able to make use of lower cost flooded wet cells which are able to withstand deeper discharges than a AGM.

If you are not able to store your rig with shore power connected your only choice is to disconnect the battery on the camper and make sure you disconnect the camper from the truck.

To do this you can install a purpose made battery disconnect switch in the camper.

I would check the charge line on the truck, make sure it doesn't supply 12V when the key is off. This is important especially if you are boondocking out somewhere by yourself. You risk running your truck battery down below starting otherwise.

If your charge line is always hot then a relay needs to be added which will only allow 12V on the charge line when the key is on.

full_mosey wrote:


The OP might want to switch to the Sears P-4 due to the no-questions-asked 4yr 100% warranty while he learns how to maintain batteries.

Didn't know they had that kind of warranty. Great info, thanks.

When your RV is not in use, disconnect the negative cable from it. The batteries will stay charged for months at a time. When you get ready to use the RV, hook up the battery and it will take only minutes to get it back to full charge state. Your battery will last much longer.
If there is a phantom draw on your battery when hooked up, it will completely drain a battery in days and of course shorten its life by years.

realter wrote:
Last summer, after sitting on the truck for 6 weeks, both the truck battery and camper battery were dead. I believe I had disconnected the fuse. I charged the truck battery, but the camper battery never fully charged after that. When I stored it for the winter, the battery was fully charged, but within a few weeks it was "dead".

Last winter, I had a local camper dealer install something that prevented the camper battery from pulling the juice out of the truck camper. I don't have the reciept right now, but I hope whatever they did helps with that problem. Somebody told me I should have disconnected the "umbical cord" between the camper and the truck also.

Expensive learning.

Well my truck will pull the batteries down in a couple of weeks. Sounds likes like an isolator of some type was installed between camper and truck. If you previoulsy didnt have something, truck and camper batteries tied together-yes the truck would pull down camper batteries with it (and more common camper usage pulls truck down).

With the 'fuse' pulled sounds like it only kills camper-but was still tied to truck. That scenerio yes pulling the cord would have prevented-hopefully that resolved. Once you get camper battery going easy enough to verify what it does/is. Im actually leaning toward last summers episode killed the battery-installed gizmo a day late. Unless it was installed the previous winter-before the 6 weeks episode?
Not quite following the time line. I dont know what the fuse is-just need to verify that camper battery is positively dissconected.

realtor...you need to talk to Randy...stop throwing your $ away.

Who is this Rex guy that is taking all your money without explaining what to do properly? Dump Rex!

realter wrote:
Last summer, after sitting on the truck for 6 weeks, both the truck battery and camper battery were dead. I believe I had disconnected the fuse. I charged the truck battery, but the camper battery never fully charged after that. When I stored it for the winter, the battery was fully charged, but within a few weeks it was "dead".

Last winter, I had a local camper dealer install something that prevented the camper battery from pulling the juice out of the truck camper. I don't have the reciept right now, but I hope whatever they did helps with that problem. Somebody told me I should have disconnected the "umbical cord" between the camper and the truck also.

Expensive learning.

Parasitic loads is the most likely problem inside 6 weeks. The foolproof cure is to remove all wiring from one battery terminal. Then you know the all draws are cut off! I call BS on the 'something' that was installed.

An AGM of Lifeline quality should be able to sit unconnected for a year.

HTH;
John

Batteries out of use, need to be utterly, totally, and completely taken out of circuit except for maintenance charger connection. Discharge ANY BATTERY totally completely and 00.00 volts, leave it for weeks and you drive a wooden stake through its heart.

Last summer, after sitting on the truck for 6 weeks, both the truck battery and camper battery were dead. I believe I had disconnected the fuse. I charged the truck battery, but the camper battery never fully charged after that. When I stored it for the winter, the battery was fully charged, but within a few weeks it was "dead".

Last winter, I had a local camper dealer install something that prevented the camper battery from pulling the juice out of the truck camper. I don't have the reciept right now, but I hope whatever they did helps with that problem. Somebody told me I should have disconnected the "umbical cord" between the camper and the truck also.

Expensive learning.