stabil gas treatment vs seafoam for storage

Lynnmor wrote:
They seem to keep their new gas cans empty as well.

As are the gas tanks on most all new small engines as well.

Which proves exactly nothing since most industrial metal parts are left with a thin coating of an anti-rust material when they leave the factory. This washes off on the first contact with a solvent (gas).

I still own 44 years old bus conversion with Detroit all on original gaskets beside valve cover gaskets.
No leaks and I can assure you the gaskets have never seen gasoline ;)
Gaskets age with or without use.
Just couple months ago I sold 8 hp Kohler engine that I had in commercial blower I bought 10 years ago and never used. Originally the thing was over 20 years old. The needle valve had rubber seat that aged and needed to be replaced.
Obviously I could not buy the miniature oring separately and had to buy carburetor rebuild kit. Steel tank on machine stored mostly on backyard had some water. Could be condensation, could be the small venting hole in the cap, but after carburator rebuild and cleaning the tank, the engine start right up.
Anyway, water is the only thing you have to worry in engines sitting for years. If the gasket age, running the engine will not reverse it.

After exposure to solvents (gasoline) it may be better to keep the gaskets from drying out. A certain Mr. Scott found that out the hard way.

Lynnmor wrote:
There are auto parts stores all over the country. I have never seen any of the soaking the gaskets on their shelves with gasoline. They seem to keep their new gas cans empty as well.

There are auto parts stores all over the country. I have never seen any of the soaking the gaskets on their shelves with gasoline. They seem to keep their new gas cans empty as well.

Chum lee wrote:
Why complicate things?

That might work good in New Mexico and a lot of other places but climate can play a big part in whether or not that is a good thing to do.

I've heard claims that a complete absence of fuel can cause gaskets and seals to dry out and shrink but I do not know if that is true or not.

I DO know, both from reports, advice from experts and personal experience that an empty container with a vent (all gas engines have some kind of vent for the tank and carb) in an environment where the temperature and humidity varies wildly.....like the mid-west in winter.....will result in moisture condensing INSIDE the container. This can promote rust in the tank (not a plastic one, of course) and put a little water in your first tank of fuel the following spring.

Hi,

While draining might work, I don't think I want to do that at -30 c. (and I sure would not want a cold beer, lol)

Chum lee wrote:
As previously mentioned, if you insist on worrying, just drain the fuel you can, then run the component until it stops from fuel starvation and your done. Go in and have a cold beer. Nothing to buy, nothing to mis mix. Nothing to screw anything else up. Just add fuel when you want to bring the unit back to life. Nothing could be easier. Why complicate things?

Chum lee

Since I only use my Honda 2000 for emergency power during power outages: I want it to start easily, not require a lot of unneeded running just to be sure it will start, and in a normal year I don't use much gas so price is not an object. I switched to 100LL av gas about 6 years ago. Premium price, smells like gas did in the 60s, has a storage life without additives North of 3 years according to an airport manager I talked to. I drain the gas from the carb after every use and refill the tank and put it on the shelf till needed next, sometimes close to a year. Starts easily and runs smooth. I normally keep 15 gallons or so in tightly sealed jerry cans in the shed. I try to rotate at least 5 gallons a year if not in the generator I dump it in a tractor or lawnmower.

I'm also a fan of Stabil, Seafoam and Marvel Mystery, I use them all from time to time in my old cars, lawmower and tractors, most of which I use E0 fuel. A dose of MM at least once a year, Stabil before storage, Seafoam if they are sounding a little rough.

I've used both Stabil and Seafoam and both have worked fine. All my stuff starts right up after setting all winter or summer depending on what the equipment is.

....

As previously mentioned, if you insist on worrying, just drain the fuel you can, then run the component until it stops from fuel starvation and your done. Go in and have a cold beer. Nothing to buy, nothing to mis mix. Nothing to screw anything else up. Just add fuel when you want to bring the unit back to life. Nothing could be easier. Why complicate things?

Chum lee