Forum Discussion

SJ-Chris's avatar
SJ-Chris
Explorer II
May 19, 2021

Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

This is for a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RV with a Ford e450 V10 engine. It is a previous rental. I've owned it for about 30,000 miles and it now has 140,000 miles on it. Back in Feb 2021 I had an RV mechanic go through for a yearly maintenance check (tires, brakes, fluids, belts, radiator, etc). It was in great shape and the only recommendation was to replace the Transmission fluid (which I had them do). That was 2000 miles ago and it has been running great.

In May of 2020 (10,000 miles ago) it developed a leaking manifold. I brought it to one of my RV shops and they pulled the engine, replaced the manifold, and while they were doing that they also replaced all sorts of stuff since it was easy while they had the engine out. (Side note: It might be questionable that they had to pull the engine, but 5 of the 10 manifold bolts were snapped and they said it was the only way they could get them all out and replaced.) For the last ~10,000 miles since then it has purred like a kitten and driven well.

The RV recently came back from a 1000 mile trip with no issues I'm aware of. After the RV sat for several hours (presumably cooled down) I went to drive it 3/4 of a mile away to where I store it. When I started it up, I could immediately hear that something in the engine didn't sound right. It sounded a little bit like a leaking manifold, except it wasn't the deep rumbling sound of a leaking manifold. It was more of a higher pitched whirling sound. Maybe a rubbing sound? As I accelerate, the whirling engine noise gets louder.

Here is a youtube video so you can see/hear the sound.
https://youtu.be/MSFO99BWk1c

In the video, about two thirds of the way through I slow down and then accelerate into a right turn (that’s where you can hear the noise the best). Note: The yellow light on the left side of the dash is the Tow/Haul indicator (not a warning light).

I have an OBD reader on the RV and it tells me that ALL SYSTEMs are okay and no error codes. All of the following say “No Problems Detected”:

- Power Steering System
- Engine Management System
- Brake System
- Internal Control System
- Idle Control System
- Generator System
- Engine System
- Intake System
- Electrical System
- Turbocharger System
- Fuel System
- Cooling System
- Ignition System
- Emission System
- Fluids System
- CAN System
- Transmission System
- MIL Control System

I do not live in cold temperatures...all of this is happening with outside ambient temperature around 70 degrees F.

Here is likely a clue that hopefully will help you (help me) pinpoint what the problem could be… The engine makes this noise ONLY FOR ABOUT THE FIRST 3 BLOCKS of driving when cold. Then the noise seems like it completely disappears and the engine sounds perfect. I’ve let it cool down and then driven it 3 times this week and each time it made this initial high pitched whirling noise for about the first 3 blocks of driving and then it went away. Tonight when this happened again (noise went away after 3 blocks), I pulled over and turned off the engine and let it sit for a couple minutes. When I started it up again it sounded fine and didn’t make the noise for the rest of the short trip to put the RV back in storage.

I checked the radiator fluid, power steering fluid, and oil and they all look perfect. I didn’t check the transmission fluid.
I don’t think the engine is “Warming Up” in just 2-3 blocks so it might not be “correcting” itself via some heat related thing. But I can’t help but think maybe there is some sort of fluid/oil/etc that settles when the RV sits for a few hours and then when starting from a cold engine/start after just a few blocks things become lubricated once again (due to the engine movement/cycling or fluid pumping) and then the whirling/rubbing noise goes away.

Any thoughts what this can be??? Where should I start my investigation?

Thanks in advance!
Chris
  • Okay....I'm replacing the idler pulley and the tension pulley and assembly.

    When I got out the idler and gave it a spin, it spun more freely than the new one....about 2-3 times longer if in spin it. Apparently, when these go bad they spin longer (you want there to be some resistance). So the Idler pulley is not horrible, but I replaced it anyways.

    When I got out the tension pulley and assembly I gave the pulley a spin. It spins and spins and spins for a long time. This is a sign that it is bad.

    So now I've got the new pulleys in. The new tension assembly has a different type of pin (tensioner pin??). See photo:


    Can anyone tell me HOW TO REMOVE THIS PIN AND WHEN? I've got the new pulleys all installed but the pin is still in. Hopefully one of you can tell me how to get it out! :-)

    Question: I'm assuming you install the tension pulley assembly and get the serpentine belt back on and in place AND THEN you remove the tension pin, RIGHT?? But how?

    Thanks!!
    Chris
  • I'm not trying to be a smartass, but you might consider investing in a Shop Manual for that year engine.

    Also check Youtube, there are tons and tons of videos to fix just about anything.

    Best wishes to you.
    .
  • OkieGene wrote:
    I'm not trying to be a smartass, but you might consider investing in a Shop Manual for that year engine.

    Also check Youtube, there are tons and tons of videos to fix just about anything.

    Best wishes to you.
    .


    I google and youtube like crazy!

    I have searched dozens of youtube videos on this subject. Plenty that show how to replace all sorts of tension pulley assemblies but not one that shows how to remove this pin. I have it installed....I just can't get this pin out. It seems like there is lots of tension on the belt even with this pin in, but I can see that it looks like it wants to be removed and that might allow the pulley to tighten an additional 1/4 inch on the belt.

    I put a socket wrench (for leverage) onto the pulley to release the tension to get the belt on. I even tried releasing the tension this way and remove the pin....but the pin just doesn't seem like it wants to budge.

    Anyone have any thoughts?

    Thanks!
    Chris
  • 2112's avatar
    2112
    Explorer II
    I believe what you are calling a pin is actually the end of the tensioning spring. It's not intended to be removed.
  • Agree with 2112's post. End of tension spring. Do not remove is my recommendation. Why do you want to remove it. (i'm pretty sure it does not work like a timing belt tensioner where in that case, your remove the pin to allow the plunger to come out.)
  • Yes never seen a removable pin in many different tensioner pulleys.
    Is the belt tight?
    Good call. If 150k, it’s about time.

    Couldn’t hear the noise in the video. But if it persists, could be fan clutch as well.
    Good luck.
  • If there is a something in the tensioner assy that needs to be removed before flight the instructions that came with the assy would likely say that. They would not want a metal piece to come out and take a trip through the accessory drive systems when the engine is running at 4000rpm.
  • Update....

    Regarding the pin looking item...My mechanic tells me that's just part of the tension assembly and it should not be pulled.

    Regarding the noise, it was diagnosed as a leaking exhaust manifold (one bolt had broken off). It makes sense that once things warm up and expand the noise goes away. I've heard exhaust manifold leaks before (when more bolts have broken off) and it was a much louder rumbling sound compared to this. Always learning...

    The "good news" is that this RV had the manifold replaced 10k miles ago (~$8k repair bill) and it is still under warranty, so the shop is going to fix it.

    Thanks for all the suggestions/etc.

    Happy Camping!
    Chris
  • All I can say, is wow, $8k would get you a whole new engine, installed.
    I cant even fathom how they could justify that for replacing a manifold.

About Technical Issues

Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,187 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 14, 2025