Suburban Anode Replacement

Escargot wrote:
The 3rd rod from the left is intriguing. First few inches eaten away while the last segment is still relatively meaty. What would explain the inconsistency? TIA

Water quality......
Hard water, softened water

Anode rod material.....aluminum or magnesium

Length of time in service

And 'galvanic action'.......occurs closest to 'connection' which would be the plug/thread end.

mine seems to sacrifice from the threaded plug towards the end as well ... but I end with more like the far right example after a season.

The 3rd rod from the left is intriguing. First few inches eaten away while the last segment is still relatively meaty. What would explain the inconsistency? TIA

Notice the tape and dope on these....they all worked

Like others have said the threads will make contact with tape or dope. Also remember the head of anode rod is making contact as well once you have screwed it into place.

^^^ Yeppers, Tape or Dope. Anything but Nothing. It'll make contact, work, not leak, and you'll be able to get it out the next time. Those concerned about water purity might like tape better or perhaps there's a "food safe" dope.

From my own experience, and other threads here, install the new one with a socket and extension. Use tape/cardboard/paper to make the Anode Rod an extension of the extension... so it all lines up. Then contact the threads and turn backwards till you feel the Anode's thread drop into the Tank's thread. Then go forward and it doesn't have to be all that tight.

Threads will make contact regardless of tape or dope being used.

Use either teflon tape or pipe dope - neither of which will have any effect on the anodes ability to ground itself.