Suburban Water Heater Anode

^^^ X2!!!

The Anode Rod is too heavy to keep it from "drooping" once most of it is inside the heater's tank. So I do the same thing, just use black electrical tape to get the socket to fit tight enough onto the head of the Anode that it all stays lined up with an extension bar.

Then wrap some Teflon Tape around the threads and get ready to install it. I like to hold the tape roll and let it spool onto the fitting by turning the fitting clockwise.

The tip ^^^ to rotate it backwards till you feel the threads drop into place is nothing shy of Excellent. I always do that with self-tapping "sheet metal" screws going into Plastic as well as Sheet Metal.

Here's a tip for Sheet Metal: Instead of Drilling the Pilot Hole, Punch it with an awl if you can. That'll drive some of that thin metal inward for more contact with the threads of the Screw.

Welcome to the forum Jim.

I went through the same thing last Spring. I bought a 3/4 inch steel brush, that fits in my drill. I cleaned up the threads really well, but the new, actual suburban brand anode still did not turn in near as far, as the original that came in the tank.

I put several wraps of teflon tape on the new one, got it in about 4 threads, and called it good. I did not use a wrench, but turned it in as tight as I could get it, using a socket, with extension, and one hand.

It seemed to me, that the replacement anode threads, did not quite match the original. My guess is a quality control issue. I would not use too much force, and it really does not take too much to seal, when using the tape.

The threads will still cut the tape enough to ensure contact from the anode to tank.

Good luck,
Jerry

Here is a tip to insure proper insertion and tightening the anode with the minimal amount of trouble. My old Suburban water heater which developed a leak after seven years and the new replacement have a very slight down angle on the tanks anode/drain boss. This caused a little trouble getting the threads lined up when inserting the anode for the first time on the original tank. After figuring what the problem was I started inserting and tightening the anode rod using a partial wrap around the hex with a piece of cereal box or cracker box cardboard to make the anode hex fit tightly in a socket. Then I put the socket on an extension. That helps to hold everything solid while inserting and turning the anode. When inserting the anode I push the threads of the anode slightly against the threads of the tank and rotate counter clockwise until I feel the two threads slip off each other. Then I turn clockwise gently until I can tell they are threading correctly and proceed to tighten them.

I use my dremil tool with the wire brush tip. Once the threads are clean I open up the heater inlet and flush out the heater. Thread the anode rod in and call it done..

Moved from Forum Technical Support

Remove that anode rod

Go to hardware store and buy a 3/4" NPT nipple------steel
4" or 6"

Then hand thread the nipple. Then using pliers thread nipple in/out then little further in/out then further in/out.
This will clean up the threads and straighten them out if gouged/nicked

After 'chasing' the threads with pipe nipple HAND THREAD anode rod in then tighten with socket

Harvard wrote:
or maybe it got cross threaded...

they do tend to cross thread about 98% of the time. it is not easy to get them in the first time. Lord knows I've tried.

or maybe it got cross threaded...

your threads were dirty you need to clean them out