Suburban water heater problem

donn0128 wrote:
There are three things the WH needs to work on electricity.
120VAC, continuity thru the temp sensor pack and a good heating element.
Open the WH outside door. Down near the bottom left you will see a small switch. Turn it on. Next, above the switch is a square rubber cover, about 4 inches square. There you will see a couple of what look like buttons. The LH side one is the reset for 12VDC. The RH side one is 120VAC reset. Push it in. Before you try this, be sure you have water flow. Wait 20 minutes and see if you have warm water. No hot water? Then you need to check the heating element, it is quite possible you have burned it out one time or another because you connected to shore power with no water in the tank. It only takes one time and no more than a minute to kill the electric element.

"Push To Reset"
That is for the HIGH Temp T-stat
If tripped NO heating function will occur

LEFT SIDE---that is for 120VAC electric (Black wire)

RIGHT SIDE--that is for 12V DC propane (Red wire)

IF tripped you will 'feel' them reset when pushed
If 'connector wire' between high temp (top) and normal temp (bottom t-stats then NO current flow ---no heat function
120V AC wire burnt thru in this pic



Electric element.
Under cover below/behind gas valve
Test with 120V AC CB OPEN
*NO Continuity between black wire terminal and white wire terminal---bad element
*Continuity between white wire terminal and element flange...shorted element

1 1/2" thin wall 6 point socket to R&R



Propane.
From your post ------"Good blue, strong flame with the audible rumble I've always heard when the water is heating.

So the propane flame is lighting and heating ---just luke warm water flows from faucets

That is result of cold mixing with hot
IF BOTH inside & outside showers are turned off at cold/hot knobs (not just with shower handle lever/button) then the ONLY place for cold/hot to mix is at that 'COLD INLET/BYPASS' valve.

Valve NOT set to 'normal' (cold inlet position) OR valve leaks thru
This pic is a one valve system....valve handle set to 'Bypass Position' (no flow into WH)
Normal Position..turn handle so it is parallel with cold water line



Rare chance -----
IF cold inlet DIP Tube has come off then instead of cold water being directed towards 'bottom' of tank as HOT is used the cold would spray into tank undirected, diluting hot water section -----warm water.

Remove anode rod, drain/flush tank then using a bright flashlight look inside for a plastic tube laying on bottom
Easier to see if electric element removed.