Suburban Water Heater Thermostat Replacement

I called Rheem tech and their Rheem Protech Marathon thermostat will directly replace the Suburban, has a lower hi-limit safety (150 than 180); has variable temperature control; and is way less expensive. Probably a more durable thermostat. Sounds like a good way to go.

Went back and looked at the Amazon link and a reviewer says that one's a 150*. But the little "knob" makes me wonder if it's adjustable... The numbers OB posted are for a 130* standard and 140* optional. Decision where to go or wait for an order, might need to be based on the temp you want.

I think it was OB, posted a pic with that solid wire connecting the two t'stats burnt through.

The current Suburban thermostat is black with the element wire burnt in half. No doubt this is the problem. House fuse box switch was still active - not thrown. There had been contact with a small piece of fiberglass insulation.

Probably easiest to take the 60 mile drive today and get a new Suburban; however, I may call Rheems tech; as j-d said, this is a simple circuit. There should be a Rheems equivalent-some with variable temperature controls. I would imagine this is what cpaulsen is purchasing at Home Depot and Lowes.

I have replaced the heating element several times now with a hardware store Camco 1500W, as our hard water seems to be the cause of element failure. Definitely the thermostat this time, but never have seen a burnt up one.

Thanks for the help!!!

I have almost got my replacement thermostats from Lowes/Home Depot or Ace

FYI.......and future purchases (just order on-line)
Here are the part numbers for 'standard' and 'optional' t-stats

Suburban OEM Standard 120V AC t-stat set (normal/130*F HI/180*F) part # 232306

Suburban OEM OPTIONAL 120V AC t-stat set (normal/140*F HI/180*F) part # 232317


For the 12V DC
OEM Standard (130*/180*F) part # 232282
OEM OPTIONAL (140*/180*F) part # 232319

OK... But... Are you sure? The circuit in the Suburban electric heat is pretty simple. Power on the black wire (hot) through a switch or two, that set of thermostats, the element, then back through the white wire (neutral).

I'm a decent troubleshooter and determined our element was open. Replaced it and no go. Turned out the neutral connection was open in a junction box feeding the water heater. This exact problem has happened to others with their RV's.

If you haven't, suggest you bypass that t'stat set WITH WATER IN THE TANK!!! and confirm that it heats. Actually, most of the components in that electric heat circuit are pretty easy to bypass for testing.

Thanks. I will order a backup from Amazon. I do have to get one for tomorrow. Seems like a 120V electric thermostat, other than hi-limit rating, would be fundamentally the same, unless wired for more than one electric coil or for a higher rated coil.