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hpcbmw's avatar
hpcbmw
Explorer
Nov 20, 2015

Surepower battery separator to charge truck and camper

I've got a Surepower 1314a battery separator. I had a 1314 and they sent me a 1314a as a replacement after a recall.

I've got this in my slide in truck camper. I've got 2 batteries in the truck (F250 diesel) and one in the camper. The truck and camper often sit unused for weeks or months at a time, and at my new home it's not practical to run an extension cord for a battery tender. I've got an 80w solar panel on the roof of the camper, hooked into a charge controller. In the past, I kept the camper battery topped off via the solar panel.

Now I'd like to hook up the solar charger to act as a battery tender for both the truck batteries and the camper battery. I'm thinking if I connect the wires from the charge controller to the same posts on the battery separator that connect the truck battery to the charge controller, then any time there is over 13.2v from the solar, it will charge both sets of batteries. If under 13.2v, the separator will not activate, and only the truck batteries will get a charge.

Since I know nothing about electronics, and i'm told the surepower can get hot, I was wondering if anyone out there has some ideas if this will work and if it's safe. And what happens when the camper is disconnected from the truck, but the charge controller is still putting power to the battery separator?

Thanks for any input!
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    I am in the planning stage here as well to do something similar using the SMART MODE solenoid HD relays.

    The SURE POWER and BLUE SEA SI-ACR Battery Isolators SMART RELAYs are pretty neat units to use to charge auxiliary batteries only when the Truck Start Batteries are being charged in my case...

    In the past a Heavy Duty DIODE BASED unit was very popular but due to todays dependence on very close tolerance battery DC charging voltages the high voltage drop of the diode based units does not work well with todays quick three hour smart mode charge specs.

    My biggest concern at the moment in my planning is I am hoping my truck start alternator has a large enough OUTPUT rating to handle charging the additional batteries in my battery bank.

    I really like to follow some of the original golden rules to never ever mess with the basic truck charging system as this is you last resort on getting back home...

    I notice some of the Emergency Vehicle setups around here like to use a separate truck alternator system for the auxiliary battery charging loads.

    I will most likely go with BLUE SEA model unit which cost more but has a well known track record on being reliable marine quality units.

    I don't have any first hand operational use knowledge here for either of these two units...



    Let us all know how your charging setup ends up...

    Roy Ken
  • It should work fine as you describe. Obviously you do need to have appropriately sized cabling with proper overcurrent protection for the connection between the camper and the truck.

    It might help to think of it as two separate installations. You're hooking up the solar maintainer to the truck battery, and you're hooking up the isolator relay gizmo between the truck and the camper. If the camper is not hooked up, the maintainer is just maintaining the truck batteries, and possibly (but hopefully not if the control logic is well designed) powering the relay coil to combine the truck battery with an open circuit. The precise connection topology of the charge controller wires and the isolator wires is largely irrelevant to understanding what is going on.

    I would suggest not hooking up the start signal to the isolator.
  • When companies sell, when Ralph Scheidler's son Steven sold Sure Power, sure enough the new owner's bagmen told the engineers they have the same status as janitors. Cheaper and cheaper and cheaper, they demanded and got. Ralph would have neutered the person who degraded the 1314 to save a dollar and caused a recall. Steven himself was no genius in electrical engineering. They were having problems with their 500 dollar 24 to 12 volt voltage converter. Tighten the twin nuts on the power studs and it could frequently cause a floating disconnect. I told Steven to include an envelope of zinc oxide paste with the new part and instruct the customer in how to use it. Some people go to college to party. Ralph confided in me some 30 years ago "I wish I could talk with my son like this". This is exactly why the far east is kicking our butt. We are producing legions of over-educated idiots.

    The chassis battery is of lower antimony. It's inherent voltage % charge ratio is higher. Therefore connect the directional combiner to the vehicle chassis battery as the alpha when maintenance wattage is threshold limited.

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