Surge Guard 34830 plug replacement

Ohmmeter will answer it pretty fast.

Why not call surgeguard and ask them? There nay be info on their site.
Bill

+ 2 on the meter

I'd be surprised if they reveal anything about the blue wire other than opening the box voids your warranty, send it to us for repairs, etc.

And I wouldn't assume the blue wire is directly connected to one of the blades. Could be no connection or even electronics in the plug.

jkwilson wrote:
Ohmmeter will answer it pretty fast.

It might be necessary to disconnect the wire and isolate it from the box to get a better reading of what it does in the plug.

Call them and tell them a fairy tale. That you are in Mozambique, or Belize. To remove the material around the prongs takes a good drill, a vise and a rotary RASP.

CA Traveler wrote:
...I wouldn't assume the blue wire is directly connected to one of the blades. Could be no connection or even electronics in the plug...

No electronics in the plug. I was able to remove a lot of the rubber/plastic from around the metal parts. Nothing but wire that I could see. My best guess is that it was attached to the ground. I was hoping that some one had successfully accomplished this plug replacement, but I guess not.

Do not guess. Us a voltmeter and know what blade it is attached to!

trailertraveler wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:
...I wouldn't assume the blue wire is directly connected to one of the blades. Could be no connection or even electronics in the plug...

No electronics in the plug. I was able to remove a lot of the rubber/plastic from around the metal parts. Nothing but wire that I could see. My best guess is that it was attached to the ground. I was hoping that some one had successfully accomplished this plug replacement, but I guess not.

I attempted to fix my Surge Guard 34830 with the same problem a few years back with a 30 amp female pigtail. Of course, I had to open up the case to do that. I honestly don’t remember the fourth wire you’re referencing, and I can’t find any of the pictures I took of what the insides look like. I remember that opening the case isn’t difficult, just a bunch of screws around the perimeter. I’d suggest opening yours to determine what’s what.

After replacing the female pigtail on mine, it worked fine until we made a trip to the desert southwest where it was exposed to a lot of extreme heat and direct sunlight. When we got home, I noticed that the label on the front panel was turning brown, like the insides were getting too hot. I opened it up to confirm what was happening, and gave up on it at that point and bought a new EMS.

:):)

NRALIFR wrote:


I attempted to fix my Surge Guard 34830 with the same problem a few years back with a 30 amp female pigtail. Of course, I had to open up the case to do that. I honestly don’t remember the fourth wire you’re referencing, and I can’t find any of the pictures I took of what the insides look like. I remember that opening the case isn’t difficult, just a bunch of screws around the perimeter. I’d suggest opening yours to determine what’s what.

After replacing the female pigtail on mine, it worked fine until we made a trip to the desert southwest where it was exposed to a lot of extreme heat and direct sunlight. When we got home, I noticed that the label on the front panel was turning brown, like the insides were getting too hot. I opened it up to confirm what was happening, and gave up on it at that point and bought a new EMS.

:):)

I also replaced the pigtail on a previous unit. It was one of the older models that only detected faults and did not block the passage of power when faults were detected. It did not have four wires in the pigtail. Like your experience it did not last long after being opened. Same symptoms you describe indicating overheating.