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joelyn's avatar
joelyn
Explorer
Jan 28, 2020

Surge Guard Protector..????

Looking to buy one for my 2004 TT. never had one before and I see there are 3 models available...My TT doesn't have a lot of electronics in other than a 60 amp convertor, refer and A.C unit along with the other standard plugs etc...
Any suggestions as to which one might be good enough for my older TT??

middle of the line....
beginning model......https://www.campingworld.com/portable-surge-guard-protectors-30-amp-73993.htmlhttps://www.campingworld.com/portable-surge-guard-protectors-30-amp-73993.html

best....https://www.campingworld.com/southwire-surge-guard-portable-30-amp-120-volt-wireless-communication-capable-surge-protector-118086.htmlhttps://www.campingworld.com/southwire-surge-guard-portable-30-amp-120-volt-wireless-communication-capable-surge-protector-118086.html

https://www.campingworld.com/portable-surge-guard-protectors-30-amp-73993.html
CHEAPEST MODEL

Thanks for any suggestions...
  • wa8yxm wrote:
    For a 30 amp RV I would recommend a Progressive Industries HW-30C

    Why the HW (Hard wired) Two reasons in a way both the same

    1:Outta sight, outta mind means you will never forget it cause it's always there
    2: Outta Signt, outta mind means it won't grow legs and walk off in the night

    Also it has a very good VERY GOOD warranty

    What I have is the 50 amp equivalent Southwire job cause it was one "Heck" of a sale..

    What it does:
    SPike supression.. All the so called "Surge Guards" do this from the 10 dollar outlet strip to the thousands power line conditioners.
    HIGH VOLTAGE (Real surge) this damages most everything in the RV .. example no matter what others say "You Can not plug into 220 volt outlets with a TT30 plug) I have seen it done.. I've done it. (Proof of concept) Never got burned though cause the plug was a dogbone and nothing on the other end of the bone.

    I've also read far too many stories where a Professional electician wired a TT30 outlet for 230 volt (It says 125 max right on the plug body)

    I've stopped on such from doing that... In time.

    The unit also protects from LOW voltage. this damages the Air Conditioner and SOME other systems.. and the damage builds up over time. The Surge guard stops it.

    Finally it has a built in "Delay" on the PI Hard Wired set it to LONG Southwire there is no option (long it is) like wise the portables.

    This too protects the air conditioner if youget a power "Blink" (off and on say 1-200 seconds later)

    Very good product


    I see posts like this hard wire so it won't get stolen. How many thefts in CG's are there?? Years camping and never lost a thing, camp setup & gone all day. Worked an area with a state park with over a million visitors, one theft in 25 years, couple kids stole sleeping bags.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    For a 30 amp RV I would recommend a Progressive Industries HW-30C

    Why the HW (Hard wired) Two reasons in a way both the same

    1:Outta sight, outta mind means you will never forget it cause it's always there
    2: Outta Signt, outta mind means it won't grow legs and walk off in the night

    Also it has a very good VERY GOOD warranty

    What I have is the 50 amp equivalent Southwire job cause it was one "Heck" of a sale..

    What it does:
    SPike supression.. All the so called "Surge Guards" do this from the 10 dollar outlet strip to the thousands power line conditioners.
    HIGH VOLTAGE (Real surge) this damages most everything in the RV .. example no matter what others say "You Can not plug into 220 volt outlets with a TT30 plug) I have seen it done.. I've done it. (Proof of concept) Never got burned though cause the plug was a dogbone and nothing on the other end of the bone.

    I've also read far too many stories where a Professional electician wired a TT30 outlet for 230 volt (It says 125 max right on the plug body)

    I've stopped on such from doing that... In time.

    The unit also protects from LOW voltage. this damages the Air Conditioner and SOME other systems.. and the damage builds up over time. The Surge guard stops it.

    Finally it has a built in "Delay" on the PI Hard Wired set it to LONG Southwire there is no option (long it is) like wise the portables.

    This too protects the air conditioner if youget a power "Blink" (off and on say 1-200 seconds later)

    Very good product
  • You only have URLs for two different models.

    The item number 73993 ("beginner" I think) is basically useless and hideously overpriced. It's equivalent to one of the little three light plug-in outlet testers; you can do the same tests with a neon test light or better a voltmeter/multimeter. (You want 0V ground to neutral, 120V neutral to hot, 120V ground to hot.)

    The item number 118086 provides the sort of protection you want; it monitors the line voltage, and cuts off power if it's out of range. I'd prefer to have a Progressive Industries (not to be confused with Progressive Dynamics) unit myself, which is about the same price, but the Surge Guard works. I generally think the PI units are better designed and supported by the company.

    The key difference is cutting off power when there's a problem--most commonly voltage out of range--rather than just checking or monitoring things. The "surge suppression" itself is a secondary thing of rather limited value.
  • My recommendation is to go with the best PI unit that you can get. This is no place to skimp. I have seen under ground faults from one pedestal To Another causing very high voltage to enter the RV and did considerable damage. I personally have the best that PI offers.
    My PI unit plugs into the pedestal and hangs right there. I have had it for over 15 years and it has never been stolen. I personally prefer the portable one rather than the hardwired unit.

    I have the PI 50-C. It was about $400.15 years ago as I remember. It is worth every penny.
  • Hi,

    Since low voltage causes more damage that surges I suggest going to the PD top of the line unit. Or else just get an elcheapo from a dollar store.

    My own personal choice is to use an Autoformer to correct the voltage.
  • I had 2 older SugeGuard EMS units, and both failed. One failed dramatically with sparks and bouncing unit. The other one just quit. Both had water intrusion, which I assume didn't help the longevity of them.

    I changed brands and went with the Progressive Industries 50 amp EMS.

    Personally I would buy an EMS model rather than a simple surge guard-type.

    PS Your links don't work.

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