Surge protector

Thanks for the input, I will do some reading and decide what to do.

48 Volts 96 volts 240vac

Over or Under (40% error)

120vac 240vac output

with the 40% model

WNYBob wrote:
There is an issue when using a Generator! You will need a special wired adapter to use with a generator!
Make sure you do not get an Open Ground indication, you will need a floating ground plug.

Not all generators. My previous RV had an ONAN Microquiet 4000 watt and it had the ground and neutral bonded. My EMS didn't have a problem with it. It wasn't until I traded RV's and bought a TT and a Honda EU2000i that I finally had to make a bonding plug. (Bonding plug was less than $2 to make. A trip to a big box hardware store for a replacement 3 prong plug plus an inch and a half of wire that was sitting around my shop.) You definitely want the open ground indicator.

Got this off another forum post. Good information about the subject.
Complete Guide to RV surge protection
EMS vs Surge Suppressor

Search " Portable Generator open ground " here an rv.net. You should get many hits on what to do.

There is an issue when using a Generator! You will need a special wired adapter to use with a generator!
Make sure you do not get an Open Ground indication, you will need a floating ground plug.
You should be looking at an EMS (Electrical Management System) which does a lot more than simple Surge protector. Yes, they are more expensive, but the value if your electrical system/components is very high.

I prefer the hard wired EMS HW-30C, myself. You can't leave it off because you are in a hurry or the weather is bad so you don't bother getting it out. Also, it can't walk off. Mine is currently (pun pun) on its second RV and 13th year.

I use this one Progressive Industries SSP-30XL

jjrbus wrote:
Reading a post on choosing between TPMS and surge protector. I only monitor my duals with a cheap TPMS and quite happy with it.

Have not looked into this but thinking why cant I add a whole house surge protector to my electric panel? I have a 30 amp RV. Mostly use a Honda 2000 for power, but always hooked up to house power at home.

First there are two types of "Whole House" surge protectors (I have both) one is basically MOV's same as in those cheap "Power strip/Surge Protectors" and for RVers I do not recommend them for protection.. Oh they do work for what they are designed for which is spike supression but a good device like say a Progressive Industries HW-30C (hard wired so you don't forget it) or TRC equivlent or even one of the top end portables do so much more.

Spike supression.. like the little outlet box size job I have. A Given.

Power fail/restore timer.. Over 2 minutes of delay from power restore. When power BLINKS (Goes out for like 1 second) A/C's get tore up a bit as the compressor tries to restart with a full head of pressure... This means power in the CG is doing a bit of a roller coaster ride as they kick on and off. the Delay not only avoids the voltage ride. but lets the compressor bleed back to a normal start This is a MAJOR benefit.

Over/under voltage.. The Spike Supressor jobs .. Well I had about a dozen power strips in my basement when the power company restored power.. and goofed.. Hit me with at least double voltage.. Sounded a tad like July 4 with all the MOV - Fire crackers going off.. NO protection left and I lost a few things like the blower motor on my furnace and my computer's power supply.

Plug into 240 volts just once and the HW-30C paid for itself
They also protect if you have open neutral ground or other wiring mistakes.

They also protect against LOW voltage which damages mostly Air Conditioners.

I have the Southwire/TRC 50 amp hard wired here.. It works.