Suspected Converter Problem
Hey guys, back again. Hoping to gain some insight into an ongoing problem we've had this summer. RV is a 2004 Fleetwood Terry Quantum AX6 365FLTS. The rv came with a factory installed WFCO 8855 ...
Forum Discussion
"If I understand "balancing" correctly, it would imply that either the positive OR the negative wire attached to Battery 1 needs to be attached to Battery 2. That should be simple."
You meant move both wires to the other battery's post of course. The one from the converter and the load wire for the rig's 12v. It doesn't matter whether you switch the pos or negs.
On that, the neg load wire usually goes to the frame and pos wire is the long one going to the DC fuse panel way inside somewhere. The DC fuse panel is grounded to the frame nearby it, so the neg path from battery to fuse panel is mostly via the frame, with just the two short grounding wires at each "end".
the long pos load wire should have a fuse near the pos battery post. In theory, the 28" pos wire from the converter to the battery should also have a fuse near the battery post, especially since it goes through a wall so you can't see if the wire melting behind the wall :(
Some argue that converter pos wire does not need a fuse because the converter is "current-limited" but the battery sure isn't current limited if it decides to short itself.
IMO still do the jumper cable trick WFCO to battery. That will give independent evidence whether you can get 14.4 at each place if only your wiring is working right.
You meant move both wires to the other battery's post of course. The one from the converter and the load wire for the rig's 12v. It doesn't matter whether you switch the pos or negs.
On that, the neg load wire usually goes to the frame and pos wire is the long one going to the DC fuse panel way inside somewhere. The DC fuse panel is grounded to the frame nearby it, so the neg path from battery to fuse panel is mostly via the frame, with just the two short grounding wires at each "end".
the long pos load wire should have a fuse near the pos battery post. In theory, the 28" pos wire from the converter to the battery should also have a fuse near the battery post, especially since it goes through a wall so you can't see if the wire melting behind the wall :(
Some argue that converter pos wire does not need a fuse because the converter is "current-limited" but the battery sure isn't current limited if it decides to short itself.
IMO still do the jumper cable trick WFCO to battery. That will give independent evidence whether you can get 14.4 at each place if only your wiring is working right.
