Forum Discussion
LipschitzWrath
Aug 14, 2018Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
Yes, you want a fuse on the pos wire from converter to battery. You want a battery fuse on the battery to DC panel pos wire too. Often in an Rv where the converter is by the fuse panel, that is the same wire so just one fuse near the battery pos post.
You don't want the converter on the same side of the fuse as the DC panel, which you understand from the above, so why leave it like that?
Unless there is a fuse elsewhere in the camper, I cannot achieve the protection you describe without installing another breaker.
Furthermore, unless there is a fuse elsewhere in the camper, this protection did not exist prior to yesterday's work.
BFL13 wrote:
IMO just have the (single pair of #4) converter-battery wires by themselves and that's that. Then have your collection of wires from battery to fuse panel, with any (each) pos wires being fused near the battery.
I'm having trouble following you. Are you saying connect the converter wires directly to the battery, and then put all the DC load wires fed from the battery via the breaker? Where is the protection from battery to converter?
BFL13 wrote:
I think you have converter output with 1/2 (sort of) going to each battery. I am not clear whether the battery bank supply to the DC panel is split.
That is not the same thing as balancing, where all the amps go to and from the bank as though it were one big battery.
I have the converter output wire to a stud, then 2 identical cables hooked to the stud, one running to each battery. In the link I quoted, this guy identifies this as "Method 3" and says it achieves perfect balancing, although stud terminal space can become limited. With only 2 batts, I would assert that methods 2 through 4 all acheieve perfect balancing. I believe you are describing "Method 2". I selected method 3 instead because if I ever decide to install 2x 6V batteries in place of each 12V battery, the wiring will be simpler.
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