Swap 12v for 120v Fridge Element? UPDATE 2
EDIT--it turned out you can't swap them--they are not the same and it would fry things if you applied 120v to the 12v element ---------------------- UPDATE 25 Jan--12v is cooling down the freezer....
Forum Discussion
pianotuna wrote:
Hi BFL13,
Be careful. My board is rated at 15.4 volts--but I don't want you letting out the magic blue smoke.
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Terminology Note: This owner's manual uses "PC Board (lower)" "PC Board" and "Power Supply Module" to mean the same thing at the back of the fridge. It also uses "PC Board" to mean the eyebrow controls inside on the fridge you use to operate the fridge. I have been using "PC Board" to mean the power supply module at the back of the fridge. It gets its 12v from the "Terminal Block" at the back of the fridge where 12v wires come in from the house battery. I have voltage drop at that terminal block and also in the power supply module. I can by-pass the terminal block for when on second converter if necessary.
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Same with my board at 15.4 (which was also the 5er's Norcold limit)
I need to disconnect the "fridge" 12v from house batts when powering the board from the second converter and that converter is on inverter. I have realized that puts the second converter on the house batteries, and don't want that loop. Also don't want the house batts floating at 15v.
Means an extra step going from 12v to gas, but no big deal. Have to do some wiring and rig second converter so it won't fall out onto the road. Leave the Kill-a-Watt in the mix too, so I can tell from the watts if the 12v element is on.
