Temp Tire Bridge over Drainage Ditch ??

westend wrote:
Corrugated steel pipe is around $100-$200 dollars. Figure triple that for installation and back fill = $300-$600 dollars. I'm thinking you could have a good looking and working solution for around $500. Your neighbors might like your improvement also.

OP is from California.. So you could easily triple those numbers and still be a bit low..

Heck the environmental study/impact/road permit fees alone most likely would cost what you quoted..

Plus the way the OP stated it, it may not be their land to play with so it would be up to the actual landowners..

As someone else mentioned, ask the adjacent neighbor (nicely)if you could use their driveway to access the land.

Park your Class A at your neighbors with the bridge already installed and pay him a rental fee instead.

Corrugated steel pipe is around $100-$200 dollars. Figure triple that for installation and back fill = $300-$600 dollars. I'm thinking you could have a good looking and working solution for around $500. Your neighbors might like your improvement also.

You can't get there from here.

No magic solution

The last pair of 10' 25,000 weight ramps I priced, was in excess of $3,000.

Dig out the yellow pages. Look under TRENCH PLATES. They rent them and offer pickup and delivery. They also know what they're doing when offering advice.

But if you live on the far side of East Jesús, the delivery $$ might pinch a little.

BobnSofi wrote:
Our RV has a single rear axle, and a 33k gvw

Here's a pic of the street front drainage ditch area. You can also see how the uphill neighbor engineered a permanent driveway with drainage tunnel.

We would only cross the area in the center of the pic a few times a year, thus the need for temp.

With 33K of weight a stack of lumber or solid cement blocks would be the only safe way to traverse that ditch. That would be 8.2K lbs PER wheel if divided evenly..

It IS deeper and wider than what folks are going to think when looking at the pix..

Take a good look at the permanent culvert the neighbor put in.. Looks a lot like 12" diameter and is buried with about one foot of dirt on top.. looks like at least 6' or better span worth of pavement it took to bridge the road to driveway..

I would recommend looking into having a permanent drain culvert put in and be done with it.. Even if you are only going to use once or twice a season..

Done right and it will also potentially enhance the value of the land for the future.

It would be money well spent compared to the alternative of calling for a heavyduty wrecker to tow you out and or potentially damaging your rig..

+Kettner. Go to a landscaping store and buy the worst-looking beams or RR ties they sell. Lag bolt D rings into each end for come-a-long straps so you can drag them to/from storage twice a year. Done!

While that is a tiny little ditch, on some MH entering on a diagonal is enough to bust out the windshield.

Off-roading schools teach when crossing a ditch, make sure there is only 1 tire in the ditch at a time. What you pictured isn't much of a ditch. Don't cross it straight on, cross it at a 45 degree angle and the Class A should cross it without issue.

-Michael

BobnSofi wrote:
Our RV has a single rear axle, and a 33k gvw

Here's a pic of the street front drainage ditch area. You can also see how the uphill neighbor engineered a permanent driveway with drainage tunnel.

We would only cross the area in the center of the pic a few times a year, thus the need for temp.

Seems like the fence might be a problem as well.

Maybe you could just use the neighbors drive occasionally?

That little thing? Stack some wide wooden planks cut to length.
Or just get a good run at it ;)

Our RV has a single rear axle, and a 33k gvw

Here's a pic of the street front drainage ditch area. You can also see how the uphill neighbor engineered a permanent driveway with drainage tunnel.

We would only cross the area in the center of the pic a few times a year, thus the need for temp.