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dennislanier's avatar
dennislanier
Explorer
Mar 11, 2015

Testing backup camera

I am back again with more backup camera questions. I have a 2004 Jayco MH with backup camera and monitor mounted to sun visor. The camera has stopped working. I have checked and I am getting 12 volts to the connections on the monitor. However I do not know how to check the camera itself for power. It has a 4 pin cable running to it with a plug in connector. How can I go about checking to see if the camera is sending a signal thru the cable. I have a multi-meter but no way to connect the meter to the cable. The monitor has a rocker type switch with "standby" and "on". Should I be getting 12 volts at the connection in both modes or just on standby. When I touch the probes of the multimeter to the connections, I only get a reading when the switch is in the "standby" Position.

Also, the monitor has no picture at all, no "snow" or anything. If I have a bad camera only, would I get something to show on the monitor.

As you can see, I am probably way in over my head so any suggestions appreciated before I take it to the RV dealer. Right now I am not interested in buying anything new (wireless or otherwise) until I can find out what the problem is. Thanks for any help.

8 Replies

  • Many camera setups have the capability of more than one camera. If so, there will be a switch to allow U to select which camera. If equipped, You may have bumped this switch into an unused position.
  • Nine times out of ten its the connector wire and not the camera.(wire going to monitor) And its a real ***** trying to replace this yourself. The rv tech did it for one hour labor (75.00)
  • dennislanier wrote:
    One thing I forgot to mention earlier that may or may not be important. It seems that the camera failed right after I was having problems with a weak/dead chassis battery. I had to start the engine several times with the "bypass" switch and use the coach battery. Is it possible that in so doing I "fried" something in the monitor or camera which causes the problem now?


    It's rather unlikely that this is the cause. I would much more suspect unrelated coincidence.
  • One thing I forgot to mention earlier that may or may not be important. It seems that the camera failed right after I was having problems with a weak/dead chassis battery. I had to start the engine several times with the "bypass" switch and use the coach battery. Is it possible that in so doing I "fried" something in the monitor or camera which causes the problem now?
  • westend wrote:
    The camera may have failed but you can check the connecting cable with your multimeter to see if power is present at the camera connection. You will need to sort out which position is (+)--power and which is (-)-- ground.


    This is where I am having trouble understanding the checkout procedure. The cable coming out of the MH connects to the camera with a 4 pin connector. When I unplug this connection, the cable from the MH has four FEMALE holes in it. Will the probes on my multimeter fit into these holes without damaging them? If so, do I just plug in the probes into different holes until I get a reading? Thanks.
  • The camera may have failed but you can check the connecting cable with your multimeter to see if power is present at the camera connection. You will need to sort out which position is (+)--power and which is (-)-- ground.
  • The power for the camera is supplied up the cable connecting it to the monitor i.e. power comes from the monitor. It sounds like a connector/wiring issue. Check all your connections and if you can follow the cable back to see if it has been pinched/cut anywhere. If you can remove the camera plug it directly into the cable on the back of the monitor. This will indicate whether it is in fact a cable issue or a camera/monitor issue.
    Regards
    Craig
    InnoTechRV.com
  • when I was having troubles with my BU camera on my bounder, I had heard that there was a problem of wires coming off the rear of the monitor due to vibration. never could figure out how to tear the dash apart to check it out however. some tiny screws where the flat part of the dash met the raised "hump".
    bumpy

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