Forum Discussion
NinerBikes
Jan 23, 2015Explorer
I spoke to your buddy James over there in Santa Ana at Trojan Headquarters yesterday... about all kinds of golf cart batteries, equipment, leases, and charging them back up.
He says a 30 point spread in SG should be aquired before performing a 16.0V Equalize charge. He also said that if 14.8V won't bring your SG up above, 1.240 to 1.250, bump the voltage up for float V to 15.0V, and if that still doesn't get the SG up, bump it up to 15.3V float V. And if that still does not get you to a SG of 1.275, then go full monty to 16.0V and watch your battery temperature, making sure you at all times keep it below 115F when doing so.
Golf cart batteries are measured in number of holes of golf you can play on them. A Golf Cart battery has a prerequisite to not slow down or drop V over 36 holes between nightly recharging. Obviously, most managers of golf carts don't know or care about this when they get busy... and end up playing 54 or 72 holes, with unfavorable battery life results to the batteries before getting their overnight charging.
James said that indeed, while not published, 15.0V or even a bit more in 50F temps, is fine, as long as your battery does not have a roilly bubble going on inside the cells, champagne bubbles are fine. T105's are designed to handle plenty of plate shedding deposits at the bottom of the battery cell, before problems arise and the cells get build up between the plates and short out internally.
Trojan expects about 3 years or 1000 to 1100 two full rounds or 36 hole golf course cycles per 24 hour period before performance starts suffering on a golf cart battery.
Another very juicy tidbit for all you solar panel hounds / freaks that are measuring your amps in and amps out while recharging /discharging. Battery charging is only 80 to 85% efficient, you lose 15 to 20% of your amps going in recharging... so if you took 100 amp hours out, and you metered it, it will take you 115 to 120 amp hrs from your solar panels, going back in to replace the electricity and overcome thermal losses and chemical resistance to recharge back to where you originally were.
He says a 30 point spread in SG should be aquired before performing a 16.0V Equalize charge. He also said that if 14.8V won't bring your SG up above, 1.240 to 1.250, bump the voltage up for float V to 15.0V, and if that still doesn't get the SG up, bump it up to 15.3V float V. And if that still does not get you to a SG of 1.275, then go full monty to 16.0V and watch your battery temperature, making sure you at all times keep it below 115F when doing so.
Golf cart batteries are measured in number of holes of golf you can play on them. A Golf Cart battery has a prerequisite to not slow down or drop V over 36 holes between nightly recharging. Obviously, most managers of golf carts don't know or care about this when they get busy... and end up playing 54 or 72 holes, with unfavorable battery life results to the batteries before getting their overnight charging.
James said that indeed, while not published, 15.0V or even a bit more in 50F temps, is fine, as long as your battery does not have a roilly bubble going on inside the cells, champagne bubbles are fine. T105's are designed to handle plenty of plate shedding deposits at the bottom of the battery cell, before problems arise and the cells get build up between the plates and short out internally.
Trojan expects about 3 years or 1000 to 1100 two full rounds or 36 hole golf course cycles per 24 hour period before performance starts suffering on a golf cart battery.
Another very juicy tidbit for all you solar panel hounds / freaks that are measuring your amps in and amps out while recharging /discharging. Battery charging is only 80 to 85% efficient, you lose 15 to 20% of your amps going in recharging... so if you took 100 amp hours out, and you metered it, it will take you 115 to 120 amp hrs from your solar panels, going back in to replace the electricity and overcome thermal losses and chemical resistance to recharge back to where you originally were.
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