Forum Discussion

Almot's avatar
Almot
Explorer III
Dec 17, 2013

Too many holes in solar panel frame?

My bad. Changed the design of PV mounts after had already drilled holes in the frame. So the panel is a lot lighter now, and plenty of ventilation :)... Big panel, 60x40", 40 lbs. I can see how it flexes when I lift one corner, though it probably would without my holes too. Since it will be tilted, frame strength may become an issue.

One side has 4 holes from 1/4" machine screws, the frame is double-walled here, but very thin aluminum, less than 1/16". Plug them with huge aluminum rivets?

2 other sides have 5 holes after #10 machine screws in single wall - plug with rivets again? And 5 holes after #8 tapping screws in a double wall - those I can just fill with caulk to stop water from getting between the walls.

And a couple of extra water drain holes that I drilled because the original drains were covered with mounting brackets (which brackets I then decided to forgo). Those are oval like the original drain holes, so nothing can be done.

17 Replies

  • Over at the Wind-Sun Forums they almost launched a posse after me when I told them I was going to drill the frame in different places than the original locations. All kinds of doom and troubles were forecast. Of course, I went ahead and drilled. I have added aluminum angle pieces along he sides of the original frame.

    An easy recovery from a misplaced hole is to fill it with bolt and nut. It should make it stronger in that location.

    I used three aluminum channels to support the tilt struts, you probably don't have the luxury of that material in Mexico. Using a full length piece of material will be stronger than just drilling a mount bracket into the roof, though. The torque of the wind affected module will be spread along the length of the strut bracket.

    Tilting mechanism:



    Detail of mounting bracket, strut, and angle piece in stored position (panel laying flat, upside down in this construction phase):



    Hinges installed to enable tilting in perpendicular axis:



    Back side of hinge attachments:

  • I wouldn't either, and mine are 60 lbs each. A couple of strips of 2x2 laid flat under the panel (oriented front-to-back), and your panel is supported by the roof as you drive.

    If the panel can't support its own weight when tilted by the corners, there are bigger issues at play. My frames have plenty of holes in them and the structure is sound. Other than cutting the frame, I don't think it's possible to meaningfully weaken them.
  • I have 2 panels weighting in at 60 Lbs. yes the aluminum frame is the same yours. I do not worry about the extra holes I have in mine. Aluminum is strong.I would never build or add a extra box around it.
  • This shows the essentials although it is for the smaller 130w size panel. It all lies at the back of the roof bungeed to the cargo railing when going down the road, then I can undo it and prop it up somewhere like here against the air cond shroud. I learned to use a rubber mat under where it pokes into the roof.





    I then used the same tray for my contraption last year, photos in this thread.

    http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26065604.cfm

    This past summer with a new contraption, I did not have a tray for the other panels in that, and I got that flexing when strapping them down onto the contraption, so lesson learned. Next contraption coming up for the new big 24v panel is to make a tray for it and put that tray into the new contraption.
  • Almot's avatar
    Almot
    Explorer III
    Thanks, then it will be just a caulk. Some holes are in the sides, not in the bottom, and sides of the frame are double-wall, i.e. when water gets inside it stays inside until drains out through the drain holes.

    Well, I spent so far only what 500W and controller cost me. About a half or one third of a generator cost. Since the planned use of the rig is south of the border, this should work for me. It works already, my power needs are very moderate.

    Flex will be dealt with - TAD - by adding the 3rd tilt leg in the middle of 5-foot side of the panel. Have to do this anyway as many anchor screws are in the plywood, not rafters, and desert winds can be cruel.

    Wooden tray - interesting. Need to think. Though this will only help with the flex (which will be helped with by the 3rd leg already). I think it wouldn't help with anchoring the tilt legs to the roof, or would even make it more complicated. Maybe one horizontal board, between the corner tilt legs. BFL, any pics of that tray in use? I know it's winter now in BC, but may be from the last summer?
  • Have you weighed the panels? I'll bet they're even heavier than that.

    I don't think the holes will make any difference, no matter how many holes you get in there. IMO, changing your design mid-process is your prerogative for having spent so much money. Revise!

    I think the real issue is giving the panels support as you bounce along the highway. As said, a wooden tray or wooden runners will set the mind at ease. I have confidence that the panels are designed with enough support to tolerate wind loading, even when four-pinned at the corners and tilted.
  • I agree they flex a lot anyway, and I don't like it when they do. I doubt the extra holes matter much.

    What I do is run two bars across the back of the panel, which helps stiffen the panel. I then have a wooden tray that takes all the strain of being supported, tilted, etc, with the panel just lying in the tray, strapped down cross bars to tray.