I have a 2005 Carriage Carri-Lite 5th wheel that DW and I fulltime in. We are both still working and plan to live in this 5'er until we retire (10 yrs) and will then build a house.Our rig has a Carrier Air V (ducted w/remote) integrated with our Suburban 30K furnace. The A/C has bit the dust just recently. We have another non-ducted unit working for now. Not completely sure if it is the capacitor or the compressor, or both, but it does not cool any longer. Exact replacement parts for Carrier are almost impossible to find anymore. The capacitor is a "dinosaur" and nothing close will work. Two techs have recommended replacement of the unit.I am in search of an absolute high quality ducted 15k rooftop unit that will integrate with our Suburban furnace and function with similar attributes. We live in Utah where summer temps will reach into the 100's.I would like to hear from the mind hive your thoughts, recommendations and criticisms on the "best" A/C units on the market and why you recommend them. I need to do something for a replacement soon as we have a dog that holds down the bed all day and we cannot be without dependable cooling for long.Allow me to thank you all who respond in advance.

Can't suggest best replacement for the Carrier or how to integrate. Could well be those issues will converge on one make/model.But I'd sure suggest troubleshooting the A/C you have now. Most RV A/C units last way longer than 5 years. You can get a meter that'll test capacitors, or just replace the capacitors, for under $50. Besides, if the controls (thermostat, remote, etc.) are in trouble, a new A/C may not integrate or even operate.

Carrier was the WORST in RV AC units. That is why they are no longer in the RV AC business. You only have 2 choices for RV roof top Units. Do NOT think the 3rd (Advent) is in consideration. They are a cheap China knock off of Dometic. 1. Dometic2. RVP (Coleman). The furnace is not a real factor as both RVP and Dometic control kits have the 2 wires for the furnace function. You will have to change out the wall tstat and the upper control board/s when you go to the new AC units. The Carrier control system is not compatible with the RVP and Dometic systems. IF you have the remote control Carrier tstat system, then you will have to run the tstat wiring to where you want the wall tstat. Doug

If push comes to fatal fall, you can always query the company that manufactures, hard start, kits if it is a cap failure. They would know.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:If push comes to fatal fall, you can always query the company that manufactures, hard start, kits if it is a cap failure. They would know.The capacitor is a 370 VAC 40/12 UF dual function (start/run) capacitor. Carrier tech support will not even talk about these units anymore, NO SUPPORT. Yes, I can make two capacitors probably work to start and run the compressor and the fan but this does not solve the problem of the age of the unit. I would much rather replace the entire unit (money is not an issue) and get 10 more yrs out of this new HVAC system. If the cap has "puked", the next item will fail and will continue the "nickel-dime" scenario.I was looking for A/C recommendations based on RV owner usage and experience with replacement. Thanks for your suggestions.

A good unit is any one that comes on when you tell it to and holds the temp you set it at. Getting hung up on brand or "quality" qualifiers will only keep you hotter longer. For what it's worth, I have always used Coleman rooftop AC's on 3 different units in 20+ years and none of them ever failed. The current one is 10 years old.

"Top-of-The-Line" A/C Replacement (Only the best)

31 Replies

RobertRyan
Explorer
Aug 21, 2015
j-d wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Money is no object. This resets the tumblers utterly on the answer he seeks.

Then let me run this up the flagpole and see who salutes:

1. Disqualify Advent and the Australian knockoffs. Advent because they've already got a bad rep, and Aussie because it's uncertain how long they'll be around.

2. Evaluate the top-line models in Coleman (Airexcel/RVP) and Dometic. Pick the one with the features you like most or the brand with the best compatibility with existing thermostat/heating system.

I'm to where I'd consider electrical efficiency. Startup and Running Amps. I'd pay a little more for A/C with less electrical demand since we have a 30-amp coach. If you have 50-amp that concern might not apply to you.

What are the ". Australian Knockoffs" ? News to me
Bob_Shaw
Explorer
Aug 21, 2015
I was just on the Internet looking at replacement 15k units, since I was having issues with mine, and right now there are Dometic Brisk 15k units selling for a little over $500. At that price, I wouldn't even consider trying to rescue an old Carrier unit. Although, I think you have to buy the controller and thermostat separately.
Curbe
Explorer
Aug 21, 2015
Huntindog wrote:
I have had two Colemans and now have a Dometic.
They all work well.

I do remember something about the Colemans having a retrofit kit so that their units could replace the Carriers more easily... I think it was on the PPL site

Thanks for the thought, I have checked this option and neither Coleman or Dometic make a retro-fit kit for my exact model. Some they do ... some they don't. Mine does not meet the requirements.
Bull_Rider
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
We had our factory Keystone 13.5 ducted A/C replaced with an Atwood AirCommadn 15K ducted unit. Couldn't be happier. Very quiet, very efficient, has a heat pump as a bonus. It's tied into our propane furnace, and the controls are easy to use.

We're getting much better cooling, and half the noise (est) from the factory unit.
j-d
Explorer II
Aug 20, 2015
Capacitors... Found a 40 for $8 and a 12 for $4 on Amazon, free shipping. All it'd take is a jumper between the Common Terminals of the two. Then 40 to Compressor and 12 to Fan.

At those prices, I carry spares. I'm blessed to have a Fluke meter that measures capacitance. Naturally, no capacitor failures on RV trips. At home, Oh, Yes!
Huntindog
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
I have had two Colemans and now have a Dometic.
They all work well.

I do remember something about the Colemans having a retrofit kit so that their units could replace the Carriers more easily... I think it was on the PPL site
j-d
Explorer II
Aug 20, 2015
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Money is no object. This resets the tumblers utterly on the answer he seeks.

Then let me run this up the flagpole and see who salutes:

1. Disqualify Advent and the Australian knockoffs. Advent because they've already got a bad rep, and Aussie because it's uncertain how long they'll be around.

2. Evaluate the top-line models in Coleman (Airexcel/RVP) and Dometic. Pick the one with the features you like most or the brand with the best compatibility with existing thermostat/heating system.

I'm to where I'd consider electrical efficiency. Startup and Running Amps. I'd pay a little more for A/C with less electrical demand since we have a 30-amp coach. If you have 50-amp that concern might not apply to you.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
Money is no object. This resets the tumblers utterly on the answer he seeks.
sayoung
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
sayoung wrote:
Curbe wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If push comes to fatal fall, you can always query the company that manufactures, hard start, kits if it is a cap failure. They would know.

The capacitor is a 370 VAC 40/12 UF dual function (start/run) capacitor. Carrier tech support will not even talk about these units anymore, NO SUPPORT. Yes, I can make two capacitors probably work to start and run the compressor and the fan but this does not solve the problem of the age of the unit. I would much rather replace the entire unit (money is not an issue) and get 10 more yrs out of this new HVAC system. If the cap has "puked", the next item will fail and will continue the "nickel-dime" scenario.

I was looking for A/C recommendations based on RV owner usage and experience with replacement. Thanks for your suggestions.

If just capacitor that's easy.that is an oddball but go to local hvac supply & get a 40 & a 12 .may have to piggyback a 5& 7.5.get rid of the 370 volt & go 440 volt .those cheap 370volt run caps have made me a lot of service calls.
It's just a run cap,won't start without it but once started will run without it.its a "dual" run cap that the 40 goes to compressor & 12 goes to fan mtr.

you can also get a capacitor called "Turbo 200" made by Mars and it will let you make what ever cap you need,it has multiple terminals to group together .
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 20, 2015
My IDEAL A/C involves an outdoor thermometer that says 75F.