Trailer Battery Load Support
As a followup to my recent discussion about my newly acquired CTEK Multi US 7002 Charger I'd be interested in some further input on the subject of trailer battery load support. :)
First, I should clarify that we normally camp on electric sites, only occasionally "dry camp" when campsite shore power either brown outs or fails completely. :M The few times this happens each season we'd still prefer to power a few devices, most particularly the toaster (650 watts) and coffee maker (550 watts) and to that end last year I installed a 1000 watt PSW inverter. I've also since installed dedicated duplex receptacles in the camper which are powered directly from the inverter so there's no need for a transfer switch, turn the converter off, or force the fridge to gas. The only catch has been that my single G27 Interstate battery does struggle with the toaster load, the obvious solution being to upgrade to a pair of GC-2s or G31s. This however is beginning to strike me as "overkill" considering the very few times each season we'd need this much battery reserve. I'm also reluctant to invest in a pair of new batteries when I know how unsuitable the WFCO 8955 converter in our trailer really is for properly maintaining those batteries. The CTEK will solve that but only for one battery since it's rated to properly bulk charge a battery reserve of no more than 150 AH. Yes, I could recharge a pair of G31s individually but couldn't if I alternately chose a pair of 6 volt GC-2s.
This morning I plugged the trailer Bargman into the truck for load support and with the truck running found that instead of battery voltage dropping into the 11s and causing the inverter to alarm with the toaster running that voltage didn't drop any lower than 12.3 volts. :) Next I dug out a 12' booster cable, connected the truck battery directly to the trailer battery, and with the truck running the lowest voltage I saw with the toaster operating was now 13.35 volts. :B This result has me now thinking, considering the limited number of times we'd camp without shore power, that I might just forego dual batteries, replace my aging G27 with a new G31 next spring, run the truck for the limited number of minutes I'd need to provide load support for the trailer battery, and use the CTEK instead of the WFCO to properly maintain this battery.
Any input on this idea of using the truck (running) as occasional load support to the trailer battery when powering the inverter would be appreciated. :)
First, I should clarify that we normally camp on electric sites, only occasionally "dry camp" when campsite shore power either brown outs or fails completely. :M The few times this happens each season we'd still prefer to power a few devices, most particularly the toaster (650 watts) and coffee maker (550 watts) and to that end last year I installed a 1000 watt PSW inverter. I've also since installed dedicated duplex receptacles in the camper which are powered directly from the inverter so there's no need for a transfer switch, turn the converter off, or force the fridge to gas. The only catch has been that my single G27 Interstate battery does struggle with the toaster load, the obvious solution being to upgrade to a pair of GC-2s or G31s. This however is beginning to strike me as "overkill" considering the very few times each season we'd need this much battery reserve. I'm also reluctant to invest in a pair of new batteries when I know how unsuitable the WFCO 8955 converter in our trailer really is for properly maintaining those batteries. The CTEK will solve that but only for one battery since it's rated to properly bulk charge a battery reserve of no more than 150 AH. Yes, I could recharge a pair of G31s individually but couldn't if I alternately chose a pair of 6 volt GC-2s.
This morning I plugged the trailer Bargman into the truck for load support and with the truck running found that instead of battery voltage dropping into the 11s and causing the inverter to alarm with the toaster running that voltage didn't drop any lower than 12.3 volts. :) Next I dug out a 12' booster cable, connected the truck battery directly to the trailer battery, and with the truck running the lowest voltage I saw with the toaster operating was now 13.35 volts. :B This result has me now thinking, considering the limited number of times we'd camp without shore power, that I might just forego dual batteries, replace my aging G27 with a new G31 next spring, run the truck for the limited number of minutes I'd need to provide load support for the trailer battery, and use the CTEK instead of the WFCO to properly maintain this battery.
Any input on this idea of using the truck (running) as occasional load support to the trailer battery when powering the inverter would be appreciated. :)
