Trailer Battery Load Support
As a followup to my recent discussion about my newly acquired CTEK Multi US 7002 Charger I'd be interested in some further input on the subject of trailer battery load support. :) First, I should c...
Forum Discussion
pianotuna wrote:
I would stay away from group 31 jars.
Move to a Group 29 AGM. The lower resistance design will power the toaster with easy if the cables to the inverter are short and fat enough. I have found the AGM charge considerably faster, too.
Curious about your adversity to a G31 - you mean both flooded and AGM? :h
With my inverter mounted in the trailer's front pass through storage compartment the run to the battery is wired with 6' of 4 gauge which seems to be within spec for the ~ 60 amp load I'm placing on it. There's no practical way to shorten the length but I was thinking of replacing the cable with 2 gauge.
As I mentioned in my CTEK thread "I know a guy" and can buy an East Penn (a.k.a. Deka) battery at slightly over cost. However, the range of choices I have available to me are limited - no G29, whether flooded or AGM, so I'd have to either go G27 or G31. BFL13's suggestion of a 150 AH T-1275 is interesting but being Trojan I'd probably have to pay full retail for it. I seem to recall also that Trojan recommends bulk charge @ 14.8 volts rather than 14.4 volts so that would be a consideration also.
When the 12 volt Marine flooded were on their last legs, I would start the engine on my class C to support running the microwave. The micro would still run without the alternator support, but the inverter would scream at me.
Exactly what happens to me with my current flooded G27. Toaster will run for a few seconds but soon the inverter starts protesting ... supporting it with the truck running prevents this. AGMs cost quite a bit more than flooded equivalents but if one AGM would support this inverter load without protest that would be enough to convince me as I'd obviously rather not run the truck if I didn't have to.
