Trailer Electrical Ground/Frame and Solar

brulaz wrote:

BoonHauler wrote:

brulaz wrote:

Rogue says to run a separate 10ga from the MPPT grd terminal to "a common location in the DC load center, and through a Ground Fault Protection Device (GFPD), to comply with NEC requirements".

What sort of GFPD are people using if anything? Could I just connect the grd to the neg wire in the load center? Or should i just ignore the Mppt grd terminal?

What model controller do you have? I'd like to see what context they're refering to.

As for Ground Fault Breakers, here's a Link

Here's what that link says for the MNDC-GFP63:
"The 2011 NEC requires a GFP now on all systems. It used to be that they were required only when PV panels were installed on the roof of a dwelling. Now even if you Solarize your doghouse, a ground fault protector is required in order to pass inspection."

Sort of agrees with the quote from Rogue above. It's a Rogue 3048.

I presume you would put this between the mppt grd and the frame? Maybe if I ever place another order to NAWS I'll get one.

EDIT: Maybe not.

They seem to be high amperage 63A,80A and designed for grnd faults between grounded solar panels and battery neg. Half the MNDC-GFP63 is a 63A breaker between the solar panel + and the mppt + in (with another regular 63A breaker in series) and the other half breaker of the MNDC-GFP63 is from the solar panel grnd to battery neg.

My system is only 15A max with un-grounded solar panels.

brulaz:

I have yet to read the Rogue info but what a can say is the "NEC" code is for stick & brick structures and for the most part do not apply to RV's.

I'm with Westend on this one, just can't seem to understand why the GFP ....... :h

BoonHauler wrote:

brulaz wrote:

Rogue says to run a separate 10ga from the MPPT grd terminal to "a common location in the DC load center, and through a Ground Fault Protection Device (GFPD), to comply with NEC requirements".

What sort of GFPD are people using if anything? Could I just connect the grd to the neg wire in the load center? Or should i just ignore the Mppt grd terminal?

What model controller do you have? I'd like to see what context they're refering to.

As for Ground Fault Breakers, here's a Link

Here's what that link says for the MNDC-GFP63:
"The 2011 NEC requires a GFP now on all systems. It used to be that they were required only when PV panels were installed on the roof of a dwelling. Now even if you Solarize your doghouse, a ground fault protector is required in order to pass inspection."

Sort of agrees with the quote from Rogue above. It's a Rogue 3048.

I presume you would put this between the mppt grd and the frame? Maybe if I ever place another order to NAWS I'll get one.

EDIT: Maybe not.

They seem to be high amperage 63A,80A and designed for grnd faults between grounded solar panels and battery neg. Half the MNDC-GFP63 is a 63A breaker between the solar panel + and the mppt + in (with another regular 63A breaker in series) and the other half breaker of the MNDC-GFP63 is from the solar panel grnd to battery neg.

My system is only 15A max with un-grounded solar panels.

Thanks for the suggestions and info. Very helpful.

I'll keep the Mppt grnd separate from the Neg and run it to the breaker box grnd and then to the frame.

The Neg will go to the battery, not to the frame.

As smkettner posted, ground the controller box to the frame with an individual ground. Run your (-) and (+) from the module-> controller and controller-> battery with two separate wires.

I can't understand the need for a GFI on the controller chassis ground.

brulaz wrote:

Rogue says to run a separate 10ga from the MPPT grd terminal to "a common location in the DC load center, and through a Ground Fault Protection Device (GFPD), to comply with NEC requirements".

What sort of GFPD are people using if anything? Could I just connect the grd to the neg wire in the load center? Or should i just ignore the Mppt grd terminal?

What model controller do you have? I'd like to see what context they're refering to.

As for Ground Fault Breakers, here's a Link

Metal boxes need to be electrically connected to the RV frame.
Note the green wire in the pic.



The idea is to keep the box from becoming energized during a fault.
The copper connection prevents you from being the connection.
The ground should be a separate connection so that during battery or other service the ground will remain connected.

Always run the negative wire from the Charge Controller directly to the Battery/Bank.

From there (the battery/bank) you bond the Negative to the frame.

As for grounding discussion in general, there's one here Grounding my off grid RV system

Hi,

I would recommend a #10 wire from the MPPT controller to the chassis or to the battery, your pick. Actually #12 will work fine too, as the current going through it will never exceed about 1/10 amp, but never can exceed 10 amps, much less than the wire is good for. I would be running #6 wire to the battery for both +12 and -12 wires. It is not that much more expensive than running just the one wire. And you have less resistance with copper wire than with steel chassis.


Good luck with your installation.

Fred.