Trimetric 2025RV initial settings

I think the whole "full" thing is bogus, because your battery capacity changes so much with temperature. So I never did set the "three things" I just use it as is except I turned off that auto reset of AH.

I get amps, voltage, or accumulated AH plus or minus at the push of a button. I start out with full batteries as measured by SG and reset the AH. Then I just let it run. Accumulated AH go down then back up when doing a recharge. When they get back to where they started, I figure the batts are close to full. When doing a 50-90 I can tell when close to 90 if I am 46AH down on my 458AH bank so I stop the generator. then AH start back down again with loads while camping some more.

Sometimes the AH on the way up with solar goes "over" into positive readings in the late afternoon, so when it stops going up I reset to zero and that is my new top.

I have a pretty good idea what the capacity of the batteries is, so I just look at the accumulated AH figure and do a little math to get approx. SOC. eg, if I figure my 458AH (at 80F) is really now 400AH when it is cold out, and I am down 100AH, then I figure the batts are down to 75% SOC.

The trick is to compare your 'resting' voltage with that calculation to see if they are both saying the same thing. Early morning , before you start running loads and before the solar starts jacking up the voltage, observe your "morning voltage" ( being as close as you can get to "resting voltage" while camping) If that were 12.4 and you are down 100AH on an estimated 400AH bank it all more or less matches.

If you get a mis-match you know something has gone funny and you need to do some checking.

12thgenusa wrote:
... the Trimetric will no longer be able to provide information as to the actual depth of discharge.

There is the AMP HOURS FROM 'FULL' tally that can be compared to your real battery capacity. Is it independent of P3?

I'm not convinced that setting the capacity at 50% is really to your advantage. You will always be doing mental calculations to know the "real" % full. If you ever do go below actual 50% SOC, which there is absolutely nothing wrong with doing on occasion, the Trimetric will no longer be able to provide information as to the actual depth of discharge.

But it (P3) is easy enough to change and experiment with.

BFL13 wrote:
You need to turn off the auto reset of AH count (see manual on programming that) for when you have solar. If not, when you go from pos AH to neg AH in the evening you lose your AH count when it resets as AH goes negative.

You’re right! Since solar will go to zero at night, P2 is useless.

Might as well simplify - leave P1 and P2 at factory settings; 28.6v (unobtainable at the batt’s with a 12v system) and off. Therefore, generally do a manual reset of Batt% at the beginning of a trip when the batt’s are saturated and anytime the % is over 100.

You need to turn off the auto reset of AH count (see manual on programming that) for when you have solar. If not, when you go from pos AH to neg AH in the evening you lose your AH count when it resets as AH goes negative.

Thanks!

Install is still in the concept/gathering/prep phase. High day temps need to get at least into the 50’s F before I bend plastics, wires, etc. Might be a while. 8>)

Figure DW will take some action when reading is near 10% or below. At least, she will let me know.

Those settings look fine. Have you used it yet? Good idea on the percentage setting. Don't know what will happen though when you get to zero percent, might be real hard to explain a minus percentage to your wife (don't know if it shows minus)