Trimetric shunt/wire size question
I’m planning the install of a Trimetric battery monitor and I have a question about mounting/wiring the shunt. After studying my layout, I feel the simplest way to mount the shunt is to make a brac...
Forum Discussion
Go with double thickness, it is not that expensive!
I made my own battery ends for the 000 welding cable that I installed for my 1,500 watt inverter and E-Meter - a early version of the Tri-Metric.
I also broke all the rules and used #18 gauge thermostat wire, not the recommended twisted pair wire. I did install 2 fuses, and all that. As I recall (going back to 1999 when I installed the e-meter) it has 2 each +12 wires, and 2 wires to the shunt (that are ground wires) and a ground wire for conducting power to the meter. Instructions say to connect one fuse first, then the second one. I guess it matters, but each time that I connected my battery, it all got connected at the same time.
It has worked great for many years. And many boondocking nights. I have gone to -120 amp hours and my 415 rated watt solar system can recharge that in one day. Any more than -120 AH, and I will run the generator in the morning to get the most amps per hour into the battery with my Trace 1500 watt inverter/charger rated at 70 amps output.
I have 4 golf cart batteries, rated at 440 AH total.
In truth, you could barely measure the voltage drop across 6" of copper wire. So it really does not matter. But materials are almost free, and time is hardly anything too.
I made my copper ends with 1/2" soft copper ACR tubing (I have lots sitting around) and flatten one end in a vice, then fold back about 1.5" and drill a 3/8" hole in it. Then had about 1" left at 1/2" diameter to insert the wire, and crimp it in the vice. None have failed in the 15 years that they have been in my motorhome.
Good luck with your projects!
Fred.
I made my own battery ends for the 000 welding cable that I installed for my 1,500 watt inverter and E-Meter - a early version of the Tri-Metric.
I also broke all the rules and used #18 gauge thermostat wire, not the recommended twisted pair wire. I did install 2 fuses, and all that. As I recall (going back to 1999 when I installed the e-meter) it has 2 each +12 wires, and 2 wires to the shunt (that are ground wires) and a ground wire for conducting power to the meter. Instructions say to connect one fuse first, then the second one. I guess it matters, but each time that I connected my battery, it all got connected at the same time.
It has worked great for many years. And many boondocking nights. I have gone to -120 amp hours and my 415 rated watt solar system can recharge that in one day. Any more than -120 AH, and I will run the generator in the morning to get the most amps per hour into the battery with my Trace 1500 watt inverter/charger rated at 70 amps output.
I have 4 golf cart batteries, rated at 440 AH total.
In truth, you could barely measure the voltage drop across 6" of copper wire. So it really does not matter. But materials are almost free, and time is hardly anything too.
I made my copper ends with 1/2" soft copper ACR tubing (I have lots sitting around) and flatten one end in a vice, then fold back about 1.5" and drill a 3/8" hole in it. Then had about 1" left at 1/2" diameter to insert the wire, and crimp it in the vice. None have failed in the 15 years that they have been in my motorhome.
Good luck with your projects!
Fred.
