Trimetric shunt/wire size question
I’m planning the install of a Trimetric battery monitor and I have a question about mounting/wiring the shunt. After studying my layout, I feel the simplest way to mount the shunt is to make a brac...
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You can do better than this I bet! :) (From last year-- now a little different but same sort of shmozzle.)
The copper pipe on the shunt is for charger clamps. The positive clamps go on the battery pos that has a flattened copper pipe extension to take more lugs--sort of a bus. This year I added a copper pipe to that whole mess for the positive charger clamps.
This year, I flattened more of the shunt's copper pipe shown there and drilled a hole up past the shunt so it can take a bolt for more neg lugs and still have some pipe above that for clamps.
The shunt bolts are too short to take many lugs, and besides the ideal is to have only one lug and go to a bus bar. Stacking lugs is not ideal (someday I will fix all that--sure I will :( )
I have the red-tab switch on the neg to the shunt for when I want to isolate the converter from the battery bank. Solar has its own switches for that. (on panel side of controller)
This year the T-1275s are in the truck camper leaving four-6s in the trailer and the Solar30 that fed the T-1275s is in the parts box for now.
I fiddle with my set-up quite often, so whatever you rig up at first should be considered just the first crack at it :) Guys like smk can get it right the first time and not touch it for years! Just weird. :)
The copper pipe on the shunt is for charger clamps. The positive clamps go on the battery pos that has a flattened copper pipe extension to take more lugs--sort of a bus. This year I added a copper pipe to that whole mess for the positive charger clamps.
This year, I flattened more of the shunt's copper pipe shown there and drilled a hole up past the shunt so it can take a bolt for more neg lugs and still have some pipe above that for clamps.
The shunt bolts are too short to take many lugs, and besides the ideal is to have only one lug and go to a bus bar. Stacking lugs is not ideal (someday I will fix all that--sure I will :( )
I have the red-tab switch on the neg to the shunt for when I want to isolate the converter from the battery bank. Solar has its own switches for that. (on panel side of controller)
This year the T-1275s are in the truck camper leaving four-6s in the trailer and the Solar30 that fed the T-1275s is in the parts box for now.
I fiddle with my set-up quite often, so whatever you rig up at first should be considered just the first crack at it :) Guys like smk can get it right the first time and not touch it for years! Just weird. :)
